Efficient R/R for CB-1?

[Ritardo]

Hello everyone,

New here, and new owner of a CB1 '90. It has a new battery and the previous owner told me he replaced the stator but I suspected it couldn't hold the charge. After I go for a ride and come back, I could barely get 13.6 something volts and at 5000 rpm it gets even lower--plus, the R/R gets hot at idle too. And when I plug my battery tender, it takes forever to charge. So I decided to check everything about the electrical charging system. The only thing that wasn't replaced was the R/R, so I figured it must be the culprit. Thus my quest of replacing my regulator began.  And here are a few pictures from my adventures I'd like to share...I don't know if anyone here has done this, using a newer R/R. This is not a Honda R/R or after market.




Cold engine with new regulator at idle




Idle, fan on, high beam on, warm engine, after ~10-11km ride.




5000rpm, fan on, high beam warm engine. R/R cold  enough to touch

[Ritardo]

After shut down on the bike.

*No Picture*
14.66-65, warm engine, no fan, high beam.

[Ritardo]

What do you guys think?....

[xstreamcanadian]

Here is a good article. It happens to be Honda specific, but will give you a better understanding of whats going on perhaps


http://www.wdgah.net/VFR_RRFail.htm

[xstreamcanadian]

http://www.electrosport.com/street/street-model-products-listing-street_41150.php

link for a new one

plus download the pdf from this page, I tried to upload it, but apparently its too big. It should lead you through your diagnosing.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php

[Ritardo]

Thanks for the link,very interesting.Whats your volt reading on idle and at 5000 rpm?On your
bike.Thanks.

[xstreamcanadian]

dude, if my bike ran yet, I would be out riding it, not testing the voltage! someone will get back to you on that Im sure.

[a_morti]

Most important is to sort the wiring. Run a separate additional earth straight to the battery, clean and grease the alternator and regulator plug or even chop them out and make permanent joins. You can run the RR with nice thick wire just direct to the battery on both posts - check out how much thinner the wires are after the connector block. Just this can improve the performance massively, and save bits of wire and plug from melting down. Then use PC processor heat paste behind it to aid heat dispersion.

I did this on my fireblade (same RR) when I moved it into the engine bay after changing the seat unit...





I got a finned one for my CB-1, that solved all issues instantly, but was a bit spendy.

[Ritardo]

I did most of what you described to the original R/R wiring--thicker wires, power -/+, I even added a fan but not fancy like you did.This is my current set up....

OLD R/R WITH UPGRADED WIRING    OLD R/R WITH ORIGINAL WIRING                     NEW R/R, UPGRADED WIRING
Idle:14.95                                   Idle:13.25                                                   Idle:14.65-66
5000rpm:14.3                              5000rpm:12.85-90                                        5000rpm:14.64-65


 

The volts in the newer R/R upgraded is more stable in my opinion compared to the 2 previous set ups, and runs cooler to boot.

[Hairypothead]

Most important is to sort the wiring. Run a separate additional earth straight to the battery, clean and grease the alternator and regulator plug or even chop them out and make permanent joins. You can run the RR with nice thick wire just direct to the battery on both posts - check out how much thinner the wires are after the connector block. Just this can improve the performance massively, and save bits of wire and plug from melting down. Then use PC processor heat paste behind it to aid heat dispersion.

I did this on my fireblade (same RR) when I moved it into the engine bay after changing the seat unit...





I got a finned one for my CB-1, that solved all issues instantly, but was a bit spendy.

how much was the finned one and where did you get it? mines on its way out n looking for a good replacement

[xstreamcanadian]

no offense intended but that one with the computer fan stuck to it is butt ass ugly. You can get them out of hong kong with fins, for cheap.

check this link
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Regulator-Rectifier-CBR-1100-400-600-900-SH633-VFR-/160450393947?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255b96b75b#ht_2640wt_704

[a_morti]

no offense intended but that one with the computer fan stuck to it is butt ass ugly. You can get them out of hong kong with fins, for cheap.

check this link
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Regulator-Rectifier-CBR-1100-400-600-900-SH633-VFR-/160450393947?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255b96b75b#ht_2640wt_704

It was out of view, and very effective. You could hold your finger on the RR after a ride and that's although it was right behind the engine. Who cares what it looks like?

The finned one was a lucky ebay find, it's the same as they sell at electrex. You might as well try the cheapy chinese pattern parts first though, they are a lot cheaper.

[Cote Dazur]

I did most of what you described to the original R/R wiring--thicker wires, power -/+, I even added a fan but not fancy like you did.This is my current set up....

OLD R/R WITH UPGRADED WIRING    OLD R/R WITH ORIGINAL WIRING                     NEW R/R, UPGRADED WIRING
Idle:14.95                                   Idle:13.25                                                   Idle:14.65-66
5000rpm:14.3                              5000rpm:12.85-90                                        5000rpm:14.64-65

 

The volts in the newer R/R upgraded is more stable in my opinion compared to the 2 previous set ups, and runs cooler to boot.

Very nice set up, what model R/R are you using?

[Ritardo]

 I got the R/R from Cory's Motorcycle Sales in Sarnia,ON: www.402bike.com Very reasonable and quick shipping $75+$10 shipping I believe...new one at the dealer is over 300$ + tax. The R/R that I used, FH010BA , is out of a '07 Kawasaki ZX-10R/14. To find out more about where the R/R is used you can check out this link http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/WhereUsed. Also keep an eye on eBay. I've compiled a list to save you some time looking up the OEM part numbers

FH008EB*        F designate new design MOSFET
31600-MEE-003 OEM# (copy & paste this number into the above link. It's a reverse look-up, shows different year/model of bikes where it was used) Of the 3 R/Rs listed, this is the smallest. But I heard it still works the same.

FH010BA* 
21066-0008 OEM#               *NOTE: These are visibly stamped on the R/R body.

FH012AA*
1D7-81960-00-00 OEM# This is the most popular one, used on a lot of modern bikes '07+  on Kawasaki & Yamahas

Hope this helps.

[Ritardo]

One of the downsides is you have to use different connectors. You can use the spades if you're trying to save some money but these heavy duty connectors not really that expensive. This is where I got mine http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html He's a Canadian living in Japan; if I'm not mistaken he's the only carrier of these connectors for the newer R/R. 
I got rid of my connector that's coming from the Stator and used this instead, the metri pack connectors. Also he didn't charge me for custom length. The good thing about these new R/Rs is that they're very modern and you can get them cheaper through recyclers, eBay, etc. This is a good upgrade in the future, something to keep in mind. If you need more info, let me know.