Regulator Rectifier

[atheos_mb]

Hello guys,


My bike died on me,on a ride I had with some friends.It was obviously an electric problem because with the turn of the switch no lights were lit.I stored the bike somewhere and went after a few days to take it back with a fully charged battery.

When I was taking out the battery I also decided to check on the reg/rec and there I have found the plug partially black,partially melted and one of the yellow wires out of the plug.

The spare reg/rec was installed with the charged battery and I headed home.

Now I have a problem.


The day before my reg/rec died,my fan wasnt working.I guess the battery didnt have that much current to give to the fan.

I have a battery tender so at night I charged the battery and the next day the fan was working properly and the bike temp could be controlled.The bike died on me 2-3 days later.


Only once the bike died on me and I just noticed the fan wasnt working before.
My fan now stopped working again

I have 3 reg/rec and none of them have the resistance the manual says they should.Even 2 years ago when I checked my "blown" reg/rec it didnt match the values of the manual

I get 15-16 Mohms (15-16 millions of ohms) where they should be 0.5-10Kohms (0.5 -10 thousands ohms)

I have used the manual and performed EVERY CHECK there is in the manual about the electrical system.

Please see the manual for the steps
1. Leak test.No leak at all
2.Charging voltage check.regulated voltage is between 14-16v@ 5000rpm.Charging current is between 0-8A/5000rpm
3.Wire harness inspection (reg/rec).there is a chart in the manual,everything is checks out correctly.
4.Unit inspection(reg/rec).NONE of the measurements are correct.2 units of the bottom type reg/rec in the manual.One,the suspected blown and the second a used one.the 3rd reg/rec is from a cbr 400 nc23 and is the type on the top page of the manual
5.Alternator(charging coil inspection).Ohms within range and no leak from yellow wires to ground.


EVERYTHING looks correct except the units themselves although they seem to charge the battery.

I will have rides around the town the following days to see if the fan works and if i get a flat battery again.I will post back


Did any of you measured a reg/rec before and found the values mentioned in the manual?

[Ritardo]

Hi there,

will this help?  Re: Efficient R/R for CB-1?
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2010, 10:52:43 PM » Quote Modify Remove 

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I did most of what you described to the original R/R wiring--thicker wires, power -/+, I even added a fan but not fancy like you did.This is my current set up....

OLD R/R WITH UPGRADED WIRING    OLD R/R WITH ORIGINAL WIRING                     NEW R/R, UPGRADED WIRING
Idle:14.95                                   Idle:13.25                                                   Idle:14.65-66
5000rpm:14.3                              5000rpm:12.85-90                                        5000rpm:14.64-65


   

The volts in the newer R/R upgraded is more stable in my opinion compared to the 2 previous set ups, and 

[Ritardo]

I replaced my old R/R with newer unit from 08 yamaha and it works like a dream. Check my post somewhere in gen. discussion area. Very little voltage fluctuation and runs very cool, too. Check your connection and upgrade to heavier R/R wires. Connect a direct R/R wire to the battery and ground from the R/R.

[atheos_mb]

Honestly I want to bang my head on the wall


the unit from the checks looks faulty but it generates the correct voltage/amperage.


Amorti did warn me once.I paint the frame and I also painted the area where the reg/rec resides so I guess heat doesnt transfer properly.I will scrape the surface and use "heat sink compound" which is the paste that is used on effectively transfer heat from a component to a "cooler"  e.g in PCs or other electronic devices like power supply's or dimmers


I must admit the bike did rev much faster

[Ritardo]

Here's a good read http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0 tons of info here. Hope this help.

Regards
Ritardo

[a_morti]

Take the red/black wires from the regulator out of the connector block, and run thick wires straight to the battery terminals. Take out the alternator plug and use some really big spade connectors. That should be a good start. If you are still struggling with heat here the mod I did on a fireblade regulator using the heatsink from an old PC:

[a_morti]

Take the red/black wires from the regulator out of the connector block, and run thick wires straight to the battery terminals. Take out the alternator plug and use some really big spade connectors, all straight into the regulator. Thickest cable you can find that will fit, running the shortest length without being tight. That should be a good start. If you are still struggling with heat here the mod I did on a fireblade regulator using the heatsink from an old PC:

[atheos_mb]

I like your mod amorti but as you can remember there isnt much room for the entire mod.maybe some fins mod could me applied

I also liked the link ritardo shared.the info on mosfet sounds logic enough.


Were your spades insulated?the pins are close in the reg/rec and if you use spades that gap becomes smaller between the pins.Especially for the 3-phase system which is easier to short out.


thanx

[a_morti]

I like your mod amorti but as you can remember there isnt much room for the entire mod.maybe some fins mod could me applied

I also liked the link ritardo shared.the info on mosfet sounds logic enough.


Were your spades insulated?the pins are close in the reg/rec and if you use spades that gap becomes smaller between the pins.Especially for the 3-phase system which is easier to short out.


thanx

On mine the plug wasn't melted so that was OK to re-use, this was just due to relocating the RR into the engine bay.
You should probably just put heatshrink over the female spade, that'll keep it all safe.
I don't remember well, but you might be right that there isn't space for a fan in the CB1. The fins help though, I think it was a 40x45 heat sink. Filled the RR top with silicone, to remove the air gap. Let that seal, and then glue the fins to the RR with araldite. Can't remember what chipset it came from I am afraid, but some old pentium or other I think.

[Ritardo]

Here's my set up on my bike for those interested...


The voltage regulator is really big compared to the old one


I don't know if the photo is clear enough, there's still a considerable amount of room even with the cowl installed


From a different angle

[Ritardo]

Here's the before and after temperature readings on the voltage regulator


Before the ride, engine not running.



After about 40 min ride around town and some backroads . Cool to the touch; I'm very impressed with this unit.

I wish had this tool, temp reader, before I did my mods, cause I know the old R/R was very hot to touch after a ride or just idling only. I could only put my fingers on it for a second.

[clarkdw]

Thanks for the detailed info on the reg/rect setup. I think I will keep an eye out for a similar unit to install before mine goes for a sh*t AGAIN.

[Ritardo]

You're welcome . I got the R/R from Cory's Motorcycle Sales in Sarnia,ON: www.402bike.com Very reasonable and quick shipping $75+$10 shipping I believe...new one at the dealer is over 300$ + tax. The R/R that I used, FH010BA , is out of a '07 Kawasaki ZX-10R/14. To find out more about where the R/R is used you can check out this link http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/WhereUsed. Also keep an eye on eBay. I've compiled a list to save you some time looking up the OEM part numbers

FH008EB*        F designate new design MOSFET
31600-MEE-003 OEM# (copy & paste this number into the above link. It's a reverse look-up, shows different year/model of bikes where it was used) Of the 3 R/Rs listed, this is the smallest. But I heard it still works the same.

FH010BA* 
21066-0008 OEM#               *NOTE: These are visibly stamped on the R/R body.

FH012AA*
1D7-81960-00-00 OEM# This is the most popular one, used on a lot of modern bikes '07+  on Kawasaki & Yamahas

[Ritardo]

One of the downsides is you have to use different connectors. You can use the spades if you're trying to save some money but they're not really that expensive. This is where I got mine http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html He's a Canadian living in Japan; if I'm not mistaken he's the only carrier of these connectors for the newer R/R.
I got rid of my connector that's coming from the Stator and used this instead, the metri pack connectors. Also he didn't charge me for custom length. The good thing about these new R/Rs is that they're very modern and you can get them cheaper through recyclers, eBay, etc. This is a good upgrade in the future, something to keep in mind. If you need more info, let me know.

[dhanvic08]

hi mates,

this is very very very useful! im now searching for an RR with FH prefix here in the Philippines.
BTW< does it also affect the idling if RR is not giving enough volts on the SP?
My idling is not stable when the headlight is on and the fan is working.

thanks in advance and ride safe!

thanks,

dhan