Chain Link Q - Lower Tooth Rear Sprocket

[rebabal]

I want to lower the RPMs on higher-speed driving.  I am looking to get one of the following [37/38/39] tooth rear sprocket.

I need to get a 525 pitch chain, correct?  Is 525p factory? All the 525p chains on Bike Bandit are 108 links and up, nothing but 520 pitch in the stock 104 link range.

What are my options?  Where can I look to get these?  I would prefer a low-maintenance chain, I don't know the difference between o/x ring chains though.

FYI I'm going on a bike trip with some work folks this Friday-Sunday, I'd like to get this sorted out prior to then... I'm trying to stay away from eBay due to that reason.

Thanks!

Edit: Could I reuse my original chain?

[evol]

Stock is 525. Here is another thread about it:
http://www.hondacb1.org/forum/index.php?topic=571.0

Invest in a chain breaker/riveter, very worthwhile. You should be able to pick one up from any local MC shop. Here is a link to a random site that has the one I've been using for years now:

http://leclarepowersports.com/proddetail.php?prod=08-0058

If you decrease a sprocket size, you can most likely still use your original chain if is in good condition, but I would recommend replacing the master link. If you are only chain a tooth or two, you might actually be able to use the original chain without needing to break it and change the number of links. Adjust your chain tensioners so that the rear is as close to the middle of the bike as possible and slip the chain off the sprocket. Pull the axle, remove the sprocket and replace with your new one. Then try to get it back on without breaking the chain and adjust it within spec. It might very well work.

I know alot of people like to change the sprockets, but we've covered most of the states in the US, and most of my wife's riding was on a stock geared CB-1.

Good luck!

[91cb-1]

chain break tool is very handy but the most important thing to remember is; taking the links off is easy putting them back is a bitch so when measuring your chain measure twice cut once and remove the links one at a time.

As to changing your sprocket and keeping your old chain. this is ok if your chain only has 100 or so miles on it. as a chain and sprocket gather more miles the chain will stretch to adjust the sprocket and vica versa, a motorcycle chain is not elastic so if you have a couple of hundred miles on the chain it is not going to be at all like a stock chain and will be specific to the previous sprocket. therfore the old chain will jump and skip on the new sprocket. it is not wise to put old with new. as to your low maintinance chain, x ring are zero maintinance as they are sealed everywhere, it is still advised to give them a lubrication every now and then all the same. o rings are great chains but require lubrication everyweek. if you want to lower your chain maintinance buy yourself a scott oiler. all you have to worry about then is adjusting your chain and making sure the oiler is full.

[rebabal]

So I can just get a chain breaker and get a longer chain and fit it to my necessary size?

Thanks for the guidance.  I  knew it was a good idea to get a new chain with new gearing but I couldn't find anything small enough to fit, and i've never used a chain breaker so I don't know what's what.

How will a chain breaker affect an x-chain?  Are those made to be adjusted?

Aside from BikeBandit.com, what's a good US retailer for these? (Sprockets/Chains)

Thanks!

[91cb-1]

How will a chain breaker affect an x-chain?  Are those made to be adjusted?

Yes x-ring chain's are made to be adjusted they break the same as an o-ring you just have to make sure you put the proper seals on the master link

[rebabal]

Just want to make sure I don't get the wrong tools:

http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-chain-riveting-tool <-- This says it's a riveter and breaker.
http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-chain-press-plate-for-chain-press-tool-kit <-- Chain Press
http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-heavy-duty-chain-breaker <-- Chain Breaker (if I can find a cheaper riveter or something)

That's the cheapest riveter I could find.

[evol]

The chain press you found is the same as the one in the kit. The chain breaker is a little different. You will need a drill/dremel with a grinding wheel or cutting wheel to grind of the lipped end of the master link. The breaker should then be able to punch it out of the chain. Honestly, if you grind off the lip with a dremel, you can skip the breaker and just notch it out with a mallet and punch. That's the ultra gutter mechanic route, but if you aren't going to try to reuse the chain, why not? The issue with this is when you buy a bazillion link chain and try to cut it down to the number of link you want, using that dremel is going to get tiresome, and honestly I would think it wouldn't be in the best interest of a new chain to get metal filings everywhere. That's why I opted for the kit with the built in breaker.

I found this kit (Stockton) which looks identical to the Motion Pro, in a different case:
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PRC_L35-247

It's $69.99.

I don't have anywhere to recommend for chain/sprockets as I buy those straight from my dealership who always cuts me a deal to almost match online. I will say that I've grown increasingly unhappy with DID chains, a few have come with kinks in them out of the box, but have been happy with all my EK Chains.

I'll second what 91cb-1 said about taking them off one at a time. I cut my first chain install too short and essentially wasted a chain years ago!

Good luck!

[ptlcb1]

A smaller rear sprocket will put more slack in the chain, if you put the rear axle back in the same position.  So you will need to use the chain adjusters to move the axle further back to get the extra slack out of the chain.  If the stock chain is 104 links, and the rear sprocket is a 41 tooth, then going to a smaller sprocket, the stock chain will be long enough, but hopefully not too long.  You only want to go to a longer chain if you are going to a larger sprocket in the rear.  

I ran into this on my race bike.  I ran at a second track that was very tight.  I needed to change my gearing for the bike to accelerate quicker, so I went with a 45 tooth rear sprocket.  I bought the 45, and when I tried to put it on, I found out that the stock chain was not long enough.    

[rebabal]

So when I buy a longer chain (because I don't see a 525p 104link x-chain available on bike bandit) do I need to get any seals or anything for when I hook it back up?

Edit: I'm buying this: http://www.bikebandit.com/ek-525srx-premium-x-ring-chain  what all do I need to make it work, chain wise... I already bought the toolkit listed above.

[91cb-1]

Chain should come with a master link and split link and all seals you need!

[rebabal]

Awesome, thanks for all your help!