CB1 South Africa Project

[JacquesJVR007]

:)Hi there, new to the forum so here goes;

Bought my CB1 in March 2010
Changed complete Motor
Changed ECU
Changed tyres front 120 and rear 160 Mitchelin Pilot Power
Changed Can to Carbon Fibre MGP can from Italy
Lifted rear about 3cm / Still making spacers for shocks
Fitted Vapor Trailtech, still deciding if i want to remove clocks and rpm and fit the Vapor in the middle.
Coated the wheels with matt black

....and ja, thats where i'm at!!!

Awesome Forum!!!!!

[JacquesJVR007]

And the Rear tyre

[JacquesJVR007]

Front

[JacquesJVR007]

Side

[xstreamcanadian]

i like that color a lot. can i ask what the point is of the trailtech? good job swapping out a motor, that must have been a lot of work. and by the way, welcome, these guys are great

[a_morti]

i like that color a lot. can i ask what the point is of the trailtech? good job swapping out a motor, that must have been a lot of work. and by the way, welcome, these guys are great

It's not so bad, once you get started You can see here that in fact, you take the tank airbox, headstock panels and carbs off, drain the water, and from there it's plain sailing. Number the HT leads! and remember the front engine bolts will be seized, so soak them in a strong mix of plusgas and hope for days and weeks before doing the job, then use a rattle gun to remove. If that fails, remove the engine with front subframe and replace as an assy. if your new engine comes with the subframe attached. They are so hard to get off that most engines will come with that subframe. Water gets in and the whole lot corrodes and rusts/ welds itself together, not pretty.



You shouldn't really have those tyres fitted, they're too wide for the rims, so they will pinch together and make a very triangular profile. Might be OK and "quick-steering" when new, but they will wear badly. Also you won't get to the rims, so it will look as if you ride like a big jessy If you really like the wide tyres look, you could get some NC29 wheels. Front goes right in on CB-1 spacers and axle but you will need to open up the disc threads to M8 if keeping the rest original, or you could look into changing the front more drastically, eg. NC30 fork bottoms and calipers will fit your fork legs, then NC29/30/35 front wheel and disc, you have that 120 tyre and 6-spoke wheel, and twin discs.

The rear wheel would require a small amount of spacer work and replacing the bearings for CB-1 spec bearings, but ultimately fit OK. Your disc will bolt on to it, but you will need the NC29 cush drive, I think. You get 6-spoke wheel and can use OE 150 or up to 160 tyre. I weighed all the wheels and the 6-spokes are about the same weight, despite being a wider rim.

This is all from vague vague memories when I had a set in the shed that were going to go on at the next tyre change, but the bike got stolen, returned, then sold in the meantime.

[JacquesJVR007]

i like that color a lot. can i ask what the point is of the trailtech? good job swapping out a motor, that must have been a lot of work. and by the way, welcome, these guys are great

I am thinking of loosing the clocks and rpm gauges, and the trailtech has got awesome functions, 2 adjustable shift lights, trip dist, max speed, max rpm, motor temp, ambiant temp, timer, distance count down etc.

Give your opinions gents, later

[xstreamcanadian]

is it a pain to set up or does it have its own wireless sensors for the wheels or something? I agree, it would be nice to lose both the tach and speedo and go with a little unit like that. The only thing is, around vancouver(where I live) that little guy would get ripped off every time I parked.

[JacquesJVR007]

It is a wardwire system. Easy to install if you know basic electrics, I got a receadind bracket in which I will mount the Trailtec.

[JacquesJVR007]

This is what the bracket looks like installed on another bike

[xstreamcanadian]

i like it a lot actually. i have no issue wiring stuff up, in fact its the only thing i know how to do! where does one get a gadget like that?

[JacquesJVR007]

The product was developed for the Tooring market, 4 wheelers etc. You can buy for approx $120. had a friend from USA that came for the Soccer and baired this gift to me. I Like It A Lot!!!!!!!

Guys, as I'm new to the forum, I am strugling with a problem and hope that when I post here I can get some advise, My CB1 loses charge over 5000 rpm. Idles at 13.6-7 volt, over 5000 rpm drops to 13 - 12.8 volt, the lights arent even on!!!

Any advise is appreciated.

 

[Kai Ju]

1. the vapor meter is awesome, I've had one on my XR650R for about three years now with no problems.
2. check the charging system with the headlight on and see what it does. If below 13 or so volts, check what the amperage break even point is, i.e. set your meter to 10 amp setting, connect the negative lead to the negative battery post, the positive lead to the neg cable. Start the engine and carefully unbolt the neg cable from the battery, make sure the leads don't come off. Check your amp meter and see if it goes from -amps to + amps when you rev the engine. as the revs climb you should get an increase in + amps, indicating that the charging system is working. (I may have the initial set up wrong, as far as neg lead to neg post and you may have to reverse that, but the method is the same).
If you don't get that, unplug the reg/rec and check a/c voltage between the yellow leads (three checks) coming from the alternator and you should get about 60-80 v a/c on all three legs at about 5000rpm.

Any questions, please ask.

Kai

[JacquesJVR007]

Kai

Thanks for your post, your the man, I will test this toningt and post my finding.

thanks for all the advise!!!

[Hairypothead]

It is a wardwire system. Easy to install if you know basic electrics, I got a receadind bracket in which I will mount the Trailtec.

what size coolant temp sensor did you get? iv bought the same speedo but it came with the air cooled sensor