Having a problem with neutral!

[thetraveler58]

Well,
I did drop my CB1 and ever since that day it's been hard to shift into neutral when standing at a light.  But when I shut off the engine it's easy to shift into neutral. Does the CB1 use transmission fluid?  It's a 1993.

When I dropped the bike I was at a stand still and cut it too close trying to get into a parking spot between 2 other bikes.

When it goes it goes and there is nothing I can do!  Is there anything I should check?

Thanks

Robert

[a_morti]

Give a physical check of the gear pedal and linkage. Unbolt the lever, pop it off (may be tight but is only a friction fit) and clean the pivot and linkage, relube and put back together. Check chain tension. Adjust (get someone to help if you don't know how yet), and lube.

Just this usually sorts out a sticky gear change.

Also check your clutch cable for and frayed strands around the lever pivot and check it is moving freely. This would mainly make a difference to gear changes on the move though.

If it's still no good then check the sprocket carrier bearing, and only then start considering engine-internal problems since those are harder and more expensive to fix.

[clarkdw]

The CB-1 uses the engine oil to lubricate the transmission so just make sure your oil is at the proper level.

At what point in the clutch lever movement does the clutch start to engage? If the engagement point is when the lever is close to the bar, in other words at the max travel of the lever, it could be that your clutch is not completely disengaging. This will give you exactly the symptom you speak of where it is difficult to shift with the engine running but no problem when shut off because there is always some torque applied to the gears preventing easy movement.

Adjust the clutch cable end.  (right hand side top of the transmission case) Take out almost all of the freeplay in the clutch lever. There MUST be a tiny bit of freeplay in the small lever where the clutch cable attaches so you do not have tension on the cable with no pressure on the lever.

When the bike fell was it on the right side or the left? Did it bend the shifter arm? It would help to know what might have been damaged.

[thetraveler58]

It fell on the right side.
I don't have a center stand so will I get a good reading with the dip stick while on the side stand? Must i some how stand the bike up to get an oil reading?  after a short ride how long should I wait  before reading the oil?  I was told it must be cold to get a good reading

The clutch cable was replaced twice first time wrong size.
I will take it to the shop as I have zero mechanical ability right now!

Thanks for your help.

[a_morti]

It fell on the right side.
I don't have a center stand so will I get a good reading with the dip stick while on the side stand? Must i some how stand the bike up to get an oil reading?  after a short ride how long should I wait  before reading the oil?  I was told it must be cold to get a good reading

The clutch cable was replaced twice first time wrong size.
I will take it to the shop as I have zero mechanical ability right now!

Thanks for your help.

The bike must be upright on level ground when reading the oil level. Get a friend to help. Do this by unscrewing the dipstick and resting it on the threads. Oil level should be on or near the upper marker, use any decent semi-synthetic 10/40w motorcycle oil.

You may not have any ability yet, but have a look at it yourself anyway. It's not difficult and you'll save money as well as get a real sense of achievement when you fix something yourself.

Just always be mehodical, in no hurry, and don't forget we are here to guide you. Pictures help us to help you!

[clarkdw]

You can easily check the freeplay on the clutch as well. With the bike shut off check how much movement of the clutch lever occurs before there is any tension. Mine has about 1/2" or 10 - 12mm. At the other end of the clutch cable this translates in to movement of the small lever before it starts to act on the clutch itself. Mine has very little free movement before it starts to push. It must be enough that you are sure it actually has some free movement but go for as little as possible.

To adjust it you just need a 10mm wrench or an adjustable wrench. Loosen off one of the nuts holding the outer clutch cable at the engine end. Loosen it off about two or three turns then tighten up the opposite one just to see what the adjustment does then try going two or three turns in the opposite direction past where it started out and see what that does. It will become quickly obvious what I am describing when the clutch lever freeplay changes one way or the other. You should end up with as small an amount of free movement of that linkage as you can while still being sure that there is a little. Whatever amount of free movement of the clutch lever that creates is what you get. 

You should really make the attempt at learning some of the small things mechanical when your bike is over twenty years old because if you don't it will put you in the poorhouse paying mechanics bills or leave you stranded on the side of the road for some very simple problem.

[thetraveler58]

Everyone here has been so kind.  I love this bike and will make the effort to learn the simple things slowly.  I will check the oil and see the level. Sure would be great if it's just low on oil.

Now the $64,000 question.   I will be storing the bike for 4 months in Thailand.  The season is rainy and wet.  It maybe outside under a roof or possibly in a building.  The mechanic here suggests to drain all the fluids and refill them when I return.  Someone else said fill the tank
and put gas stabilizer in it.

So I am not sure who to believe on this.  No said anything about the battery.

Got two weeks to decide which way to go.

Thanks again

Robert

[clarkdw]

Fill the tank right up and add stabilizer. Filling the tank reduces the amount of condensation collecting in the tank. Run it for a few minutes after adding the stabilizer to get it in the carbs.
When storing my bike for the winter I always change the oil just before storing it to eliminate the acidity laden old oil. Leaving it with no oil just invites more condensation inside the engine. Leave the coolant in as it contains anti-corrosion additives and needs to be left in.

If the bike is going to be stored in a damp area I would spray it pretty much all over with WD-40  to reduce the amount of corrosion. It won't hurt the paint and will do much to reduce rusting. Either remove the battery and put it on a float charger or hook the float charger up with the battery still in. The charger is a very cheap insurance and will extend your battery life a lot.

[thetraveler58]

Thanks for your advice.
Don't know why the professional mechanic suggests
to drain everything.  Is it a money thing?

When I check the oil level and if it is low do I just put more oil in where I took the reading?
Do you change the oil filter every time you do an oil change?  I'm changing mine every 3,000 kilometers.

I return to California with a Nighthawk 750 which I bought while being here in Thailand.
So as you can see I have motorcycle fever!  It's a 1993.

Robert

[a_morti]

Thanks for your advice.
Don't know why the professional mechanic suggests
to drain everything.  Is it a money thing?

When I check the oil level and if it is low do I just put more oil in where I took the reading?
Do you change the oil filter every time you do an oil change?  I'm changing mine every 3,000 kilometers.

I return to California with a Nighthawk 750 which I bought while being here in Thailand.
So as you can see I have motorcycle fever!  It's a 1993.

Robert

No idea why the mechanic would say that unless the oil looks old.
Yes just top up to the correct level through the dipstick hole.
I change the filter every time but I stick to the recommended service interval which is twice what you are doing, you could certainly safely leave the filter every second change.

[thetraveler58]

OK,
I checked the oil level and it was low.
So  do I have to top up whenthe engine is cold?
I will need to drive to the store and get more oil.
How long would you say it takes the engine to cool down
aftera 15 minute ride?  Any idea.

Yes this simple task has given me some self satisfaction!

Thanks for your support

Robert

[clarkdw]

Topping up the oil when the engine is warm is not really a problem. Do not top it up higher than about three quarters of the distance between the two marks on the dipstick. In other words, three quarters of the way up to the top mark. Recheck it when it is cold and all the oil has drained back and you will find it is within the marks.

Make sure you use oil designated as motorcycle oil. It is important. Cars do not use the same oil in the transmission and the engine whereas the CB1 does. There are different requirements.

[thetraveler58]

Hi Clarkdw,
So you were right oil was low but still didn't solve the problem.
Went back to the mechanic who replaced the clutch cable he made an ajustment
and it was fixed!

I could not afford to service my bike in the US like I do here!  Hopefully that Nighthawk 750 won't need to much except a new front tire!

Robert