Removing carbs from a CB-1..

[Dream]

I've removed many carburretors in my life and this may sound like a stupidly simple question, but what's the simplest way and is there a knack?  Just to fully explain :- i've fully slackened not 4 but all 8 of the special jubilee clips holding the inlet rubbers between the head and the carbs and i've even soaked the rubbers with releasing fluid to try and make them more flexible but I just cannot get the carbs to detach using quite a lot of effort. Any more and i'm worried about damaging something - I did start to lightly lever between the bodies and the head but thought better of it. I'm starting to think that this engine may have sat for more years than I realised and so the rubber has dried out and become hard. If I flex the carb bodies up and down there is a little play but not much considering it's rubber.
It looks like I might have to resort to more drastic measures unless someone can tell me a magic trick that i'm missing..

[rigwit]

"quote" If I flex the carb bodies up and down there is a little play but not much considering it's rubber.

Get one hand at back of carbs ie left bottom or right bottom-other hand on top opposite of which bottom you use rock carbs gently and pull first with bottom hand -rock some more keep pulling--tip put some old clothes/rags/towels under the carbs and around framework as when it releases they can shoot off I wouldn't worry about carb rubbers as if you got your carbs off then put them back on tighten them up then undo clips you would have to do the above process again.

[guntherrex]

first time geting them off can be a tad hard work I used a large ring spanner between de frame and the carb frame and slowly levered them out. don't worry, steel is stronger than rubber

[Dream]

I appreciate you two replying I have just this evening bitten the bullet as I was getting impatient. I was about to try a hair dryer but before that I got two lengths of flat wood which could just be wriggled between the long bracket above the choke cross link and the rocker cover one at each end. I applied some leverage and was about to find a way of keeping it loaded when I decided to keep pressure applied and wait. When I felt a little movement I was relieved to then find that they slowly popped off and pleased to say nothing got bent on the carbs despite using a lot of force. Thanks again, does anyone know the best place to get carb spares in the UK?

[guntherrex]

very hard to find spares mate. Might want to do a search on here for some info. What do you thnk you'll need?

My jets were so clogged up I ended up buying some micro drills to open them up. Does work well! Cheap too, for about 10 quid you have a box from evilbay

[Drewski]

....... does anyone know the best place to get carb spares in the UK?

http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/

[Dream]

Thanks Drew

[rigwit]

another good thing to do while carbs are off throw the clamp crossheads and replace with socket stainless

[Drewski]

Thanks Drew

If they're expensive, (I know pilots can be), let me know. I may have a set here but if not, there's a guy selling a set in Japan I can get that might work out cheaper.

http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/134822428

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f90328046

[rigwit]

both are around the £ 14.7588 mark, then plus postage!!!!

USA stockist http://www.pjmotorsports.com/keihin-jets.html#main jets
99101-393 xxxx are main jets for the CB-1 and pilot/slow jets are first listed if you scroll down

price from $ to £ is £ 4.4167 for main....Tenner cheaper for starters.

 

[Dream]

You've all been very helpful to a 'newbie' in fact the most help i've ever had on only just joining any bike forum. I'm ok for needle valves and jets now as I salvaged some secondhand  but something that would be a great help is if someone could tell me or direct me to a site that knows the inside and outside diameters of the various 'O' rings used to seal the overflow and supply tubular 'T' junctions?  I will have a guess at them if I can't find out.  I know from the past that if I don't change them, they are bound to weep and the test for me is how 'floppy' they are when you swivel them (and they're ALL floppy..)


Edit are these carbs known as VG 32's?

[rigwit]

VG 06 is CB-1 kehine carbs

VG 32 are fitted to cbr 400rr nc23, 29, 30

if you take "0" rings to any hydraulic outlet they should be able to re-supply the size needed, as for "T" branches "Straight couplers" etc then its browse a breakers or bag a set of,"carbs for spares" on e-bay

very little support of the kehine carbs exist in the uk... as for float bowl sealing Hylomar blue is best, putting a very small bead on the sealing ring, it helps when first put on to make sure none of it has got into the inner flange it can be moved by a "Q" tip while still wet, then you will see it start to skin----best left overnight to solidify but it solidifies like blue tac, it can be removed, -re-used and it wont lock the parts together it is NON setting.

[Dream]

Thanks Rigwit, it's just the 'O' ring info I needed. As for taking it into a local hydraulics company.. all i'll say is that this would have been easy in the '60's or even '70's but not so today. After a couple of hours research and trying half a dozen dead ends I hit the jackpot and found not only a very helpful person but someone who was at the cutting edge technically so able to take time explaining to me the different alternatives to 'Viton' (a Dupont trademark) and how they were facing so many problems dealing with modern aggressive chemicals in what we just used to call 'petrol'. I'm getting all I need as samples to start with so when I get them and confirm that they fit without leaking I will add all the information to this Forum. I've only catered for 3 different seals so far - the 'T' junction fuel in, the two 'T' junction overflow drains and the two plain aluminium tube links.

[Efreeman55]

I'm looking forward to hearing what size O-rings you choose since I'm in the same boat right now.  I have a spare rack of carbs I need to overhaul for a spare motor I have and all the O-rings need replacing.  I measured them but it's difficult to determine an exact size since the rings have become flattened over the years.  I'm still working on sourcing replacements but having the proper sizes confirmed would be a great help.

Eric

[Dream]

Hi Eric Sorry I only just picked this up - just came on this evening to add some notes and results.     There are 3 different sizes of 'O'  rings used on various tubes and 'T' junctions  linking the 4 carb bodies together :-

The Diaphragm/vacuum type - 2 short tubes and one 'T' link - Outer Dia 13 mm, Inner Dia 11 mm. Quantity required either 2 or 6 depending if you have 2 off small aluminium link tubes or 2 off one-peice rubber links which incorporate the seals. The manufacturer uses the inner diameter and the wall dia so I used :-  11 mm x 1.3 mm.

The 'Fuel in' type - 2 long tubes and one 'T' link - Outer Dia 11 mm, Inner Dia 8 mm. Quantity required 6.   I used :- 7.94 mm x 1.78 mm

The float chamber overflow type - 2 'T' links - Outer Dia 10 mm, Inner Dia 8 mm. Quantity required 4. I used :- 8 mm x 1.25 mm.

The material used was Viton A but there was a greater selection available if you were worried about using ethanol as in the States.  The sizes used were the closest available which were acceptable bearing in mind the suggested ideal compression figure is around 20%.

I fitted them all up yesterday and they fitted very well with no leaks - I just wish I could have got hold of the float bowl seals as I was forced to use Hylomar on all four in the end just like Rigwit does.
if you get stuck for a supplier I have the details for the company I used if necessary. Their minimum order is £20 plus p & p.