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Author Topic: Brakes  (Read 1006 times)
earthbound14
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« on: August 23, 2009, 09:39:05 PM »

I can't seem to adjust my front calipers or disks so that they don't rub a little bit. Could this be from a sticky brake cylinder? My disks aren't warped, and my bike brakes smoothly with new pads (although after a time the get unevenly worn and start to brake funny....because I can't seem th get them adjusted properly.....) Am I doing something wrong? I'm also getting a buzz now when I use the front brakes....argh.
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baard
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« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2009, 04:58:59 AM »

There should be no adjustment necessary. However normal wear, dirt and such may make both the pistons and the caliper stick. A piston maintenance kit is cheap and easy to use, and the pistons will normally respond well to cleaning if there's dirt build up. You should also check that the caliper slides freely, and that the contact area where the pads rest on the fixed part of the caliper is straight and clean.

All of this will be a waste of time if the caliper isn't on straight because of a bent mount or otherwise.

Good luck:-)
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Drewski
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« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2009, 11:37:18 AM »

Try pushing the pistons back in by hand, pump them back onto the dusc with the lever then repeat a few times.
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a_morti
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« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2009, 01:04:11 PM »

Is it binding? Put on centre stand, raise front wheel off floor, rotate with hand pressure. The pads will drag, but there shouldn't be any serious resistance. If there is, you need to strip the caliper for a rebuild.

Typically on these calipers, corrosion builds up behind the seals, forcing them out, and they bind the pistons. You can see the rubber seal trying to break out past the piston if that's happened to a bad enough degree. When that happens, you get your squeak, because the brake never really lets go. By stripping and cleaning, you can allow the brake to move freely once more. Happily the CB's caliper isn't at all complicated.

Pump the pistons out with the brake lever. One will pop out easier (always does), get the easier one close to the edge first, then clamp that (G clamp is ideal on floating calipers) and pump the stiffer one out. Do Not Pump Them Right Out, or you'll be bleeding the brakes whether you want to or not.

Once it's apart, polish the pistons, you really want them 100% clean. Don't use a steel brush or you will damage the coating and then they're as good as scrap. Best thing to use is brake cleaner but it's quite expensive, so elbow grease and brake fluid will also work.

Hopefullly that will fix it. Otherwise it's time to strip your caliper completely... Repeat above but ignoring That Bit.

Pull the seals out. Depending on what condition they are in, you can usually reuse the oil seals if not the dust seals. Your budget will decide for you, but remember brakes are a serious safety feature of a modern motorcycle - and even a CB-1! It's best to use new ones, as a rule. www.davidsilverspares.co.uk will sort you out. Don't try and use pattern seals, they are invariably lower quality and not much cheaper. Once the seals are out, use a metal brush (you can get toothbrush sized ones in wilkinsons for £1.50 which are perfect) to scrape any corrosion out of the seal grooves, and line with red grease before putting the new seals in. If the pistons have any serious corrosion, the new seals won't last long. Wemoto will sell you stainless pistons, but I have had a stainless rear piston for a CB-1 and the seals didn't fit to it, the dust seal was too big and bound from new. Therefore, I would still buy OE seals to go with a stainless aftermarket piston!

It's not half as daunting as it sounds!

Please note, you shouldn't use any normal grease on brakes. You should use red rubber grease only on the sliding pins, and no grease on brake pistons, unless you have them right apart, then you can put red grease in the seal groove to help reduce corrosion behind the seals. If you use normal grease on the sliding pins, over time the rubbers will swell, and then the pins can bind, or the boots can split, then you get corrosion build up.

Careful when putting pistons back in, it can be tricky to get them to go in square, and easy to put them in pissed so they get marked.

Post pictures of your caliper if you can, we'll tell you if it's broken.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2009, 01:09:56 PM by a_morti » Logged
ptlcb1
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« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2009, 09:33:11 PM »

I can't seem to adjust my front calipers or disks so that they don't rub a little bit. Could this be from a sticky brake cylinder? My disks aren't warped, and my bike brakes smoothly with new pads (although after a time the get unevenly worn and start to brake funny....because I can't seem th get them adjusted properly.....) Am I doing something wrong? I'm also getting a buzz now when I use the front brakes....argh.

...calipers or disks???  What front end do you have on the bike? 
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earthbound14
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2009, 08:20:59 AM »

A Morti,

Great advice, many thanks.

I forgot to take picture though.

They seemed really clean actually and it didn't take much work to get them clean. Work fine now. Not binding at all.

I seem to have some glazing on my disks though at the top or edge of the disk (less than an inch wide, with that colour you get when you heat up metal). Probably becuase I didn't notice at first after I replaced the pads and rode it for a while until I noticed the disc was hot (only one caliper was binding). How bad does a warped disc need to be before you replace it? Any test for that? I can't actually see that it's warped, but the uneven glazing across the face of the disk suggests there is some.

I also get a buzz now, I've read that this might be because I have older discs and my new pads do not match the grooves in my discs, so they buzz.

I'm thinking of sanding the disc lightly to see if that helps.

Any suggestions?
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Drewski
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« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2009, 10:22:53 AM »



 How bad does a warped disc need to be before you replace it? Any test for that? I can't actually see that it's warped, but the uneven glazing across the face of the disk suggests there is some.

Best and most accurate way is to get yourself a Dti gauge and clamp it to the fork leg.
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X.A.
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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2009, 05:20:05 PM »

I have older discs and my new pads do not match the grooves in my discs, so they buzz.

I'm thinking of sanding the disc lightly to see if that helps.

Any suggestions?

Hello. New pads generally don't fit the previously worn area of the disc. They will eventually get the shape.
I guess you can feel with your brake lever if disc is damaged/uneven/not concentric etc... 

X.A.
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