140 is the stock size and will handle as intended, 150 is still OK, 160 is already a bad idea.

hey Mikey,

If you're on Facebook, better try the group over there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1119747858086718/
You'll get a much more prompt reply, from a much bigger audience.

Thanks,
Aaron (you'll find me there as a moderator)

Trouble is, your bike is more modern than anything you'll find expertise on here.
The speedometer is probably electronic instead of cable driven, so the restrictor will work in a different way.

The California emissions system is detailed starting on page 1-25 of the Honda service manual. Basically the system included a charcoal canister to absorb fuel vapors from the tank vent and carburetor vents plus associated tubing and valves that control purging the canister. The second part is the secondary air supply system, which introduces filtered air into the exhaust ports to burn unburned hydrocarbons. Neither system affects performance, but can cause problems if any of the many rubber tubes develop leaks. There is also a small amount of weight to be saved by removing all components and blocking off all disconnected ports.

-Bill

Exactly this.
In the meantime I have moved on to more modern bikes, and actually it's quite nice heading out to the garage in warm weather and it doesn't smell like evaporated gas.

No need to remove any of that stuff unless it's actually giving you trouble, IMHO.

Cheers Bill,
I've got a full set of rings and gaskets coming from Thailand and I'll replace the fuel line O-rings as well.
I'll check bowl to carb matching very closely.

I assume you've not been able to identify exactly where it's leaking from?
Those seals from litetek will solve it, most likely. If not, reassess from there.

You have a much later bike. Since it has HISS, I guess it's also new enough to not have a speedometer driven by a cable, but electronic. In this case, your problem is not the same and I'm afraid you're not likely to find the answer on this forum.

Also - ask yourself this... Are you going on track? Are you riding on the Autobahn? Then why do you want to ride at 180km/h? In most countries, that'll land you a pretty big fine, if not jail time. Leave it alone

If they would open much faster, the engine would cut out from lean running condition. You can test this by sticking your fingers in and forcing the slides to open as fast as you'd like them to.

I couldn't tell you which of the tiny drilled passages does what, exactly.

If it really is sluggish (you will perhaps notice this when actually riding) then you might start with the sub air filter, there should be a small piece of foam in the plastic box on the back of the main air filter but it will be dust by now, which won't cause a problem but if its remains have blocked the hose that could be a problem.

The rev counter hitting zero is a sign that you're right: it's definitely electrical. This could happen from under or over charging. Although it's not the most likely cause, it is just about the easiest to check so may as well start with it.
Test your battery voltage at 0rpm, 1500rpm, and 5k rpm. You should get >12.5v, >12.5v, >13.5v but <15v.

After that, it's more likely a loose connection or a broken wire. Since the tach dies and the spark dies at the same moment, could be the pulse coil. Could also be something not directly related to those systems. Do you also lose lights, thermostat display, anything else?
Easiest thing to check is whether all the cable in and out of the battery and starter solenoid are tightly secured and free of corrosion.

After that you're into a fun game of hunt the broken wire, probably an earth (green wire). Is the bike stock? Does it have any mods like higher handlebars? Stock, the most likely place for a break in a wire is around the steering neck. With higher bars, could be anywhere from the neck forwards.

The carbs are CV type carbs. If you're used to older type slide carbs, these work in a different way.
Instead of your throttle cable directly controlling how far the carb slides open, the cable opens a butterfly behind the slide. The engine's vacuum then controls how far the slide opens, allowing more accurate metering of fuel.
It doesn't need more than one or two PS when you rev it on the stand, and the slide opens accordingly..
They will get fully open, at that moment the bike needs all of its ca. 45PS.

It's the same as a CBR600F1, if you can find that more easily.

SCAM

The guy's been posting since 2010. Hope you have some good reason to cast aspersions.

Valve shim job is about as easy as it gets on a 16v LV motorcycle engine.

Access could be better, but hey it's a good chance to get familiar with the bike; take the tank and airbox off, look around at the cable routings etc.

Get the rocker cover off, being careful of the rubber gasket which is of course no longer available at Honda. No big deal, it can be reused pretty much indefinitely as long as you don't rip it.

Spin it to TDC using a socket on the end of the crank - access is easy through the inspection cover on the RHS.

Have a real good look at the orientation of the timing marks, take yourself a picture.

Remove the cam caps, remove the camshafts (no chains!), do the shims as you usually would.

When putting the camshafts back on, observe the marks. They want to rotate about a tooth as you tighten the cam caps, so it's relatively easy to mistime them. Refer back to the picture you took.

You'll want a small torque wrench for reinstalling the cam cap bolts. They are m6 HT bolts, so can snap off relatively easy.

When reassembling, note the left coil spark wires go to cylinders 1+4, the right coil wires go to 2+3. It's very very easy to get this wrong.

Anyway, job is easy enough, the lack of cam chains is a real boon.

She's a beauty!

I don't recognise it either, but I agree the fit is too good for it to be something bodged on from another bike.
I've been hanging around CB-1's since 2001, and I've not seen one like it.
I guess it could have been put on there in 1989 by the original owner in Japan!

The headlight looks like it may have come off an Aprilia RS250.

Hi,
unfortunately there is an issue with the wemoto cables which may be your problem here.
Please could you ask on the facebook group? it's much more active.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1119747858086718/

thanks,