First thing to say is, are you doing a restoration, or are you putting it in boxes to sit on a shelf? These aren't the same but one can quickly turn into the other.

I'd leave fuel in the tank, but spraying oil around seems reasonable. It'll be easier to paint empty though. Bear in mind that the oil will then run through your engine though, don't overdo it.

Over time left disassembled, the water seals in the engine will perish. Damhikt. Seals in the carbs will dry out (be fine if you used the viton type from Thailand). Fork and brake seals, plus tyres can all dry out over long term storage.

Never try to paint a bike still assembled. It'll look horrible. Take it out, clean it very thoroughly and paint the whole thing in black or silver engine paint, mask the covers but don't need to be too precise. Then remove the side covers, strip all the paint chemically, and put some enamel or powder coat on. Refit with new gaskets from Graeme France and some stainless bolts.

Front engine mount bolts will almost definitely be stuck and, if really corroded, can crack. Go straight in with the big guns. Drip penetrating oil in over as long as you can, get it really hot to expand the alloy off the bolt (this is key), and hit it with an impact gun rather than a long lever.

Lovely  People are going mad over little bikes at the moment, in the UK, they're paying up to £6K for restored 1970s Yamaha FS1-E sports mopeds and other classics of the time. I'm a "nevermind the quality, feel the width" type of guy myself and it always seems a lot of money for little bike to me but I see the attraction.

I had an MSx (Grom) for a couple of years. Little bikes are cool

Looks like you're one busy weekend away from a running $1500 bike? Someone gets a bargain here!

He's been having difficulty logging on. Post in the Facebook group for reply

That bid price is well below 1989 MSRP with inflation factored in. Mount some new tires and ride off on the new CB-1 you always dreamed of back in the day. 

Not to mention, what does that money buy new? Puts you half way between a cb500f and cb650f. Neither of these have gear driven cams.

The braided hose isn't stock, but it looks like a good solution to the OEM formed rubber hoses going brittle.

Welcome to the club!

Start a thread, get some pictures up, and we'll be happy to help you save another-1.

https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Honda_CB1_NC27.html

These guys do better than OEM seals at a fraction of the price. If the PO had the carbs open, safe bet the seals will be lost or have dried out or have needed replacing in the first place.

They also host the owners / workshop manual. Should help with working on it. The fuel hoses are a problem though. They are NLA and the rubber goes hard with age so used spares are rocking horse poop. Just make something up with regular hose / bends.

Thw wheel width is bigger but the spacing is identical. I've had an f3 wheel with holes drilled to m8 for a stock disc mounted in stock forks just to use the wider lighter 6 spoke.

Looking good. Interesting with those bar spacers, wonder what they were off.

Do the longer forks give same ride height ; does the extra length disappear in that bar and spacer?

I'd really like to know, as my bike does it too.

Guessing it's one of the small channels in the carbs relating to the choke circuit which is blocked so that one or more carbs get no extra fuel at certain lean angles. Solution in that case would be a long soak in an ultrasonic cleaner.

I can tell you that replacing the seals doesn't fix it. That said, I'd still recommend getting a set of viton rubber seals at litetek.co if you're planning on splitting the carbs, they are cheap to buy and you'll definitely find at least one split and perished seal while you're in there.

Ok wanted to give an update. After bypassing the cut off switch, changing batteries, extra cables, grounds and a new LT4 starter I still had the trouble. Got a tune for the car and it has yet to not start since, Even if the battery is weak and is draggy cranking it will still start in a couple spins. After digging in the old tune the injectors were set on 42lb, However I have 36 lb. Now it makes sense. The PCm may have not fired the injectors enough for starting if set like this, but I may be wrong. Either way it starts and runs good now. Thanks

Injectors? Surely you aren't talking about a normal CB-1.

Every post he's made is nonsense then he hits us with a link to a non relevant FB page. He can take a walk.

Very very happy with this forum.
Perhaps Moderator can attract more members trough FB-community/Gear Slutz etc. etc.?
Thanks again.

Right, so that's the angle.You post a bunch of irrelevant nonsense, then link to your own forum. I was wondering when it would come.

Hey guys,

Anyone got a good stock s15 airbox & snorkel etc to sell? Post your price

Cheers

S15... What, the Nissan Silvia? Think you're in the wrong place mate.

If you get them in your hand you'll see if they're worn as the Teflon coating on the wear surface... Wears.

To test on the bike, jack front end up securely, and grab the fork legs tight. Try to rock them back and forth. If there is noticeable play in the legs when rocking, or a knocking sound, the bushes are probably worn. Sometimes you'll notice a knocking noise under braking, and even when the steering bearings are eliminated it's still there.

Did you ever replace the fork bushes? If those are worn they'll give the seals a hard time.

96/97 cbr900 is a very easy fit. The triples work and five minutes with a file will even give you a steering lock. However there is nowhere to fit the headlight and clocks, and the OEM handlebars are too low for my comfort.

If you like the idea I can try to get the CAD drawing for the CNC top yoke on my bike.