Welcome to the CB1 brotherhood!  Hope your bike came with all the parts since they're getting very hard to find.

I also have a 1989 GB500 (now a 601cc!) and it's a great companion to the CB1.  Essentially the same size and weight, nearly identical riding position but a unique riding experience.  Virtually no vibration due to the balance shaft and amazing torque and power (especially with the upgrades).  When I ride my CB1 it seems like the bike is going much faster than it really is whereas the GB is just the opposite.  It never seems stressed and pulls like a freight train.  I really enjoy both, although my bad knee is making me think these close-coupled bikes might be better off in someone else's stable since it's getting more painful to ride them these days.

Eric

L1000314 by Eric Freeman, on Flickr

Very nice writeup and pics that are sure to help lots of CB1 owners who do their own work.  This is on my list of things to do this spring when I take my CB1 out of winter hibernation.  I use a set of calibrated vacuum gauges to set the initial synchronization of the carbs to get them close and then use a 30" water tube manometer for final adjustment.  Very accurate but tricky to use.  I've been using this method for years to synch the twin Weber DCOE's on my '75 VW Scirocco so I'm accustomed to the technique.

Eric

No, that was the CX 500/650 that had it's two cylinders arranged like a Moto Guzzi.  My 1979 CBX is an inline six cylinder, 1047cc, twin overhead cams, 24 valves and six carbs!  Absolutely smooth as glass and plenty fast as well.

Eric

Now that you've mastered the CB-1, you need to get a CBX so you can synch all 6 carbs!  Yes, I have one of those...

Eric

The platypus mod!

Wonderful report with spectacular photos!  Thanks very much!  I'm crying right now since we're expecting snow by Sunday with temps in the 20's.

I wish I had been with you on your ride, with either my CB-1 or my GB500 (now 601cc).  Beautiful roads perfect for light, nimble bikes.  I think I'd leave my MV Agusta F4 at home!

Eric

I'd be really concerned about the end of the crank being bent with that kind of damage to the case and alternator rotor.  I have a spare, low mileage engine I bought along with my CB1 and it also had been down with damage to the alternator cover case.  The damage isn't as bad as yours but it was enough to bend the end of the crank.  Definitely something to check.

Eric

Bastard!  It's cold, windy and raining up here in the PNW and I haven't been on 2 wheels for months now!

Eric

That bag looks really good on the CB-1.  My only concern is that I found the thickness of the OEM paint is very thin and I'd ensure there is sufficient padding to prevent chafing from the straps/bag on the paint.  Otherwise, a very clean setup, assuming you're flexible enough to swing your leg over the bag!

OK, that makes more sense now.  You can probably find a runner within your budget but it might take a while.

I hate to say it, but at that price you're likely to get a real piece of crap.  Highly likely it will have been down at least once as well.  Keep in mind that lots of parts are hard to come by these days.  You'd be much better off to raise your price to at least $1500-2000 and hope for the best.

As the title says, my CB-1 came with a spare set of wheels in excellent condition.  I was thinking of spraying them a different color but have no set opinion on what color to use.  I've been thinking of a lighter shade of silver but would appreciate other ideas.  Photos would be great as well.

Thanks

Eric

I chose the Hepco-Becker rack and expandable tail bag so the seat is still usable for a passenger.  Also, I always carry stuff since I tend to ride all day in the mountains and need to carry lots of things.  It's not as clean as the bag you found but is pretty versatile.

35878580 by Eric Freeman, on Flickr

I agree that the engine-driven speedo seems strange considering front wheel drive speedos have worked so well for so many years and are independent of sprocket changes.  Plus, the CB1 drive is prone to problems.  I had a seized drive unit that sheared the plastic coupler when it jammed.  I was able to drill some small holes in the non-repairable drive unit, inject some oil and get the gears to move freely after some working back and forth.  I then cleaned the chamber using syringes and injected grease in there.  So far, it's been working fine.  Sure don't have that problem on any of my other bikes with front wheel speedos though!

I'm running a rear sprocket that's 3 or 4 teeth smaller for slightly less revs at highway speeds and also a 150/60 rear tire that combined give a reasonably accurate speedometer reading.

Eric