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Author Topic: 1989 cb1 for parts  (Read 1103 times)
Drew m
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« on: June 15, 2017, 02:55:51 PM »

Hi,after trying to get my cb1 going for a long time, getting spark and fuel it threatens to start but doesn't, alot of back firing through carbs and occasionally a real loud one through the exhaust I'm giving up so any body wanting anything, pm me.
Cheers,drew
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a_morti
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« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2017, 04:02:04 PM »

Couple things to check first: have you got the leads on right, and give the plugs a good clean and try a strong (car) battery.
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Drew m
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2017, 05:12:02 PM »

Got it connected to good car battery, turning over good, had carbs of  twice stripped and cleaned with carb cleaner and blew everything through with air compressor, carbs were clean anyway nothing obvious, this problem started a few months ago over the space of a few days running rough missing then eventually non starting.
Drew
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a_morti
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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2017, 06:07:32 PM »

Mine gave similar symptoms, turned out it had fouled the plugs. Popped em out, cleaned up with a brass brush and solvent (brake cleaner) and it started on the button. While you're there, blast the plug caps with solvent cleaner as they can get sooted up.

Worth a try?
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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2017, 11:44:41 PM »

Have you tried to start it with the clutch lever pulled?  Mine acts like that after long layups, probably a flaky neutral switch.
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Drew m
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« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2017, 01:38:25 AM »

Plug leads are marked with white paint so ok there,plugs are a couple of years old but done less than a thousand miles, like new but have polished them up and dried them out few times, does the clutch cut out stop the spark, can the timing slip on these bikes, to me it's similar symptoms to other vehicles I've had.
Drew
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a_morti
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« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2017, 04:10:16 AM »

It's pretty well impossible for cam timing to go out.

If it's trying to fire then at least you know it has fuel.

The ignition pickups have been know to fail with age. Infrequent but has been known.

The bike will, annoyingly, spin the starter even if the kill switch is off so it's that bit harder to find a fault.
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Drew m
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« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2017, 05:11:02 AM »

Thanks for replies, I notice the kill switch stops the spark somehow (via the ecu I assume)but I'm getting a fair spark on all leads are the ignition pickups you mention same as the coils, do these pack in completely or can they go faulty giving a weak spark  for instance, I notice the spark, when laying the plug on the frame and turning over seems to spark continuously but I guess this is the wasted spark that people mention, when I attach a multimeter up the plug lead different reading values flash up,don't know if that's ok
Drew
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2017, 08:57:54 AM »

Thanks for replies, I notice the kill switch stops the spark somehow (via the ecu I assume)but I'm getting a fair spark on all leads are the ignition pickups you mention same as the coils, do these pack in completely or can they go faulty giving a weak spark  for instance, I notice the spark, when laying the plug on the frame and turning over seems to spark continuously but I guess this is the wasted spark that people mention, when I attach a multimeter up the plug lead different reading values flash up,don't know if that's ok
Drew


Does the engine ever run properly for a while then stop? Or does it only turn over on the starter and occasionally backfire - through carbs or exhaust?

As you've figured out, the backfires indicate the obvious presence of fuel and some means to ignite it, albeit not when or where it should.

I think you can probably discount dieseling.

So, it has to be firing badly for some reason. There was another thread on this very same issue not long back. Was that the side stand switch issue? Sorry, I can't check via my phone. But it was something really stupid - and caused by a bad connection or broken wire.

Basically, your bike isn't toast bro. It's just got a tiny fault that's causing a major issue. There's no need to break it.

What you need to do is find that other thread and go though the electrical safety wiring methodically to find the problem.

Until you have, consider your bike to be playing a mind challenging game with you, thank it for the experience, and expand your knowledge of motorcycle electrics in the process.

Then buy Robert M Pirsig's 1974 book. Or you could D/L the PDF probably for free. He sold 5 million copies back in the day. If I recall correctly, it's a good read, but not because it will teach yow to be a good Buddhist, or because it's full of great technical advice. Keruack for the less angry Wink)

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VintageHunter
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« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2017, 09:32:29 AM »

Good book that Zen maintenance.
I have a copy. More bout mental illness than moto mechanics but good book none the less.


"The truth knocks on your door, and you say 'Go away! I'm looking for the truth!' so it goes away."

Thanks for replies, I notice the kill switch stops the spark somehow (via the ecu I assume)but I'm getting a fair spark on all leads are the ignition pickups you mention same as the coils, do these pack in completely or can they go faulty giving a weak spark  for instance, I notice the spark, when laying the plug on the frame and turning over seems to spark continuously but I guess this is the wasted spark that people mention, when I attach a multimeter up the plug lead different reading values flash up,don't know if that's ok
Drew


Does the engine ever run properly for a while then stop? Or does it only turn over on the starter and occasionally backfire - through carbs or exhaust?

As you've figured out, the backfires indicate the obvious presence of fuel and some means to ignite it, albeit not when or where it should.

I think you can probably discount dieseling.

So, it has to be firing badly for some reason. There was another thread on this very same issue not long back. Was that the side stand switch issue? Sorry, I can't check via my phone. But it was something really stupid - and caused by a bad connection or broken wire.

Basically, your bike isn't toast bro. It's just got a tiny fault that's causing a major issue. There's no need to break it.

What you need to do is find that other thread and go though the electrical safety wiring methodically to find the problem.

Until you have, consider your bike to be playing a mind challenging game with you, thank it for the experience, and expand your knowledge of motorcycle electrics in the process.

Then buy Robert M Pirsig's 1974 book. Or you could D/L the PDF probably for free. He sold 5 million copies back in the day. If I recall correctly, it's a good read, but not because it will teach yow to be a good Buddhist, or because it's full of great technical advice. Keruack for the less angry Wink)


« Last Edit: June 16, 2017, 11:16:19 AM by VintageHunter » Logged

ModerateFkr
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« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2017, 12:27:29 PM »

Good book that Zen maintenance.
I have a copy. More bout mental illness than moto mechanics but good book none the less.


"The truth knocks on your door, and you say 'Go away! I'm looking for the truth!' so it goes away."

Indeed +VintageHunter. It's ostensibly about quality, or values - what we value in our lives. But it can be read different ways. I need to re read it.

In the meantime, since what we value most here is fully up and running Honda CB-1s, may I take the liberty of suggesting the For Sale section is adended with '11th Hour Reprieve Options'?

It seems to me that bikes are broken, or 'parted out' as you guys quaintly term the canibalisation of an innocent bike, often due to frustration - which in most cases is born out of ignorance. I'm ignorant of so many things, I'm frustrated by not being able to quantify the extent of it!!!

But all ignorance is normal and curable - through enquiry, sharing and co operation, as we find here. This is a philosophical thing. If the price of saving a once much loved CB-1 from being broken or parted out, is fewer parts for us all, is the sacrifice of our time well spent? Ultimately we are balancing self interest with the bigger picture. The proto psychopathic vulture in us sees a nice new tank or clutch. The sharing caring empath sees another freeweelin' smurf blue -1 burnin' up the highway!

But I'm the guy who likes to save the hardened stainless steel self tappers with flange heads out of old buggered washing machines. Try finding some in a store when you really need them. Built-in obselescence was never a good idea for anyone other than the psychopathic elites. It began with the lightbulb - that's why Bill Gates used it for the biggest virus on the planet. Wink))
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Drew m
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« Reply #11 on: June 16, 2017, 05:40:16 PM »

Green neutral light is on when ignition is switched on, goes out when any gear is engaged, when clutch lever is pulled starter will engage, yellow light comes on when side stand is down and off when up, any more suggestions guys.
Drew
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VintageHunter
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« Reply #12 on: June 16, 2017, 05:44:57 PM »

take your CB to a "witch-doctor" to perform a de-gremlinization.

I'm joking. I know it can be frustrating as #$!.... but stick with it.
you'll get it.....I have no doubt.
Green neutral light is on when ignition is switched on, goes out when any gear is engaged, when clutch lever is pulled starter will engage, yellow light comes on when side stand is down and off when up, any more suggestions guys.
Drew
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #13 on: June 16, 2017, 06:56:46 PM »

Green neutral light is on when ignition is switched on, goes out when any gear is engaged, when clutch lever is pulled starter will engage, yellow light comes on when side stand is down and off when up, any more suggestions guys.
Drew

Drew, find that other thread I mentioned bro. Someone took the guy tgrough a very detailed, methodical procedure. He found the issue eventually. You'll do the same for sure.
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a_morti
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« Reply #14 on: June 16, 2017, 07:03:26 PM »

When mine was doing similar. I sat in frustration holding the starter in 10 second bursts for a good minute or so. All the time it wanted to fire but couldn't do it. That got just exhaust downpipe #2 hot, so I knew the fuel pump was fine and the safety circuit wasn't faulty. Had to be spark related, whether plugs, leads, caps, or coils.

Similarly, you are getting spark and fuel as you are getting backfires, so the fault can't be in the safety circuit unless weirdly intermittent, or the fuel pump.

As above, I cleaned the plugs and that solved it, they didn't even really look dirty in fact plug 4 may have been brand new, I am ofc unsure of the bike's history for the period I didn't own it so that plug may have had 0 miles on.

I'd say you are down to spark or carbs, and more likely spark since you seem to have had a good root through the carbs already.

Clean the plugs and plug caps (again), and see if it helps. While you are there, stick a screwdriver in the caps and you can disassemble the resistor for cleaning, also consider cutting back 1/2" of Ht lead and screwing it into a fresh end. None of this stuff costs anything but time and may even work.
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