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Author Topic: need new carb boots on my cb-1...  (Read 600 times)
honda4life
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« on: June 18, 2017, 12:31:04 AM »

they are just old and don't seal well enough anymore... put a spring to make them as tight as possible as a cheap fix but now giving throttle gets really hard...

called honda and they are CRAZY expensive!! what are my options? thanks guys
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a_morti
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« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2017, 04:19:03 AM »

You want cheap? I give you cheap Smiley
Look at this on eBay  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232342370235

Let us know if they're any good.
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Otus511
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« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2017, 04:21:28 AM »

http://m.ebay.com/itm/4x-Carb-Intake-Carburetor-Interface-Adapters-For-Honda-CBR400-NC23-NC29-CB-1-/232342370235?hash=item3618af37bb%3Ag%3AmKIAAOSww5hZH6XQ&_trkparms=pageci%253Ae068c374-53fe-11e7-97f2-74dbd18060e7%257Cparentrq%253Aba493cfe15c0a88789082f04fffd0ff3%257Ciid%253A2

Something like this?
Apologies for the 'uge link!
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Otus511
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« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2017, 04:22:55 AM »

You want cheap? I give you cheap Smiley
Look at this on eBay  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232342370235

Let us know if they're any good.

Ah, you beat me while I was typing!  Roll Eyes
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2017, 08:48:43 AM »

You want cheap? I give you cheap Smiley
Look at this on eBay  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232342370235

Let us know if they're any good.

Thank you for the link a_morti.

That's so cheap, it's almost worth buying a set just to see how much duty the thieves at HMRC try to steal. It's bound to cost more to even demand it. And if they can produce a contract and demonstrate the value in their service, I might even pay it!!
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honda4life
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« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2017, 11:15:59 PM »

wow that's beyond cheap lol I wonder if they are any good... I'm guessing they'll last less than a year... anyone has more input?
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2017, 08:27:12 AM »

You could ask them which specific rubber compound they've used, then compare their reply with this chart for petrolium:

http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-5

I'm struggling to read it properly on my iPhone.

If they know their business they should be able to answer. Hopefully they will answer honestly.
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a_morti
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« Reply #7 on: June 19, 2017, 09:49:46 AM »

At that price you're likely to find they'll be made very cheaply, the rubber may or may not be the right compound etc.

Thing is though, oem is no longer available to buy and if your existing parts have cracked or gone hard then what choice do you have? In any case, it's worth a look at that price.
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Pod70
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« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2017, 09:56:22 AM »

I used them on my project CB-1 and they are actually designed for the NC23 so all the boots are the same size (the CB-1 has two different types of boot) but they sort of fit, you will need to put the carbs in the boots, fit the airbox to the carbs and tighten up the top jubilee clips and then push the airbox about a bit to bolt it to the frame fixing and then tighten up the bottom jubilee clips at the cylinder head.

so far mine appear to have survived. If I remember correctly you need to remove the wire locators on the jubilee clips but I could be wrong.

Not the best but they work.
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2017, 11:20:18 AM »

I used them on my project CB-1 and they are actually designed for the NC23 so all the boots are the same size (the CB-1 has two different types of boot) but they sort of fit, you will need to put the carbs in the boots, fit the airbox to the carbs and tighten up the top jubilee clips and then push the airbox about a bit to bolt it to the frame fixing and then tighten up the bottom jubilee clips at the cylinder head.

so far mine appear to have survived. If I remember correctly you need to remove the wire locators on the jubilee clips but I could be wrong.

Not the best but they work.

That's encouraging news.

How long ago and how many miles ago did you fit them Pod70?
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Sugs
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« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2017, 11:59:53 AM »

I had a similiar issue a couple years ago when I was restoring my set of carbs, but at that time the Carb "B" boot was the only one available from Honda, part# 16213-KY2-010.  Since I could discern no obvious difference between the "A" and "B" boots, I bought four "B" boots and installed them, no issues.  I got mine from partzilla.com but a quick check there shows no longer available.  If you search enough suppliers, you may be able to find someone that still has the "B" boots, might get lucky.
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1979 Honda GL1000 Goldwing - 1990 Honda CB1
a_morti
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« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2017, 04:09:15 PM »

I had a similiar issue a couple years ago when I was restoring my set of carbs, but at that time the Carb "B" boot was the only one available from Honda, part# 16213-KY2-010.  Since I could discern no obvious difference between the "A" and "B" boots, I bought four "B" boots and installed them, no issues.  I got mine from partzilla.com but a quick check there shows no longer available.  If you search enough suppliers, you may be able to find someone that still has the "B" boots, might get lucky.
I think the main or only difference is that the locating tab is in a different place to allow the screws on the oem jubilee clips to remain accessible. Not the end of the world.
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honda4life
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« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2017, 11:53:04 PM »

seems to me an engine overhaul is next to impossible, not because it's not easy, but because of parts availability!

how do you guys go around it? they are old engines, one day or another, you'll need to service the engine! how do you guys go about it?
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #13 on: June 20, 2017, 12:20:52 AM »

seems to me an engine overhaul is next to impossible, not because it's not easy, but because of parts availability!

how do you guys go around it? they are old engines, one day or another, you'll need to service the engine! how do you guys go about it?

That's a great point honda4life. I can't find a single engine rebuild vid on YT.

I've now got a spare engine and frame that belong together, not that that matters since engine and frame numbers don't match as far as I know. I've also got another engine that the seller claimed has only done 12,000 miles. But the poor silver spray job (over rubbers, cables and DIRT!) suggests he's a liar. Not impressed. This winter I will have a good look at it and maybe get it running if possible.

I don't have the patience to make a vid, but I will try to document the process and load it here. If it needs bearings, pistons and/or rings, then I'll try to do them. If the valves need re-seating, I'll do that too. The big issues will be around worn cams and cam drives. I might try tuning that one too.

The other engine has a genuine 18,000 on it, so no need to touch it. That's only 2,000 more than mine. And the frame is in better condition. Plus, it has a great registration number.

Has anyone sourced oversize pistons and rings?

The breakers are busy destroying running bikes right now. That's where the real money is sadly. But eventually good, original low milage bikes will be scarce, especially when you add in all the modded ones. That's when they will get expensive to buy.
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a_morti
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« Reply #14 on: June 20, 2017, 04:13:50 AM »

Let's say you're out riding and for no apparent reason your engine stops. It stops in such a way that you know it has internal issues.

In uk at least, you wouldn't have a problem finding a used engine. It would probably cost around 300.

Or you could spend a lot of time and money trying to fix it. Even just a gasket set would cost plenty, never mind all the parts you'll need and aren't available.

It's a shame but there's no way I'd even look at fixing a broken engine. Even kust relatively commonplace stuff like valve seals would have to be smoking pretty bad to get me looking at them.
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