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Author Topic: Adjust rear brake lever?  (Read 455 times)
ModerateFkr
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« on: June 23, 2017, 05:05:38 PM »

This might seem like a silly question, but I've looked at the setup and searched the forums and I can't find if it's possible to adjust rear brake lever resting/start position. Does anyone know if this can be done? My right ankle doesn't bend upwards as well as when it left the factory ;-))
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a_morti
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« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2017, 05:21:40 PM »

Easily done. Release the locknut on the master cylinder thread, remove the split pin from the clevis, and now you'll be able to wind the clevis up and down on the thread.

You shouldn't re use split pins, ofc.
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2017, 07:19:59 PM »

Easily done. Release the locknut on the master cylinder thread, remove the split pin from the clevis, and now you'll be able to wind the clevis up and down on the thread.

You shouldn't re use split pins, ofc.

Thank you a_morti. I need to remove the unit to do all this right? I'm sure it will make sense when I see it. Looking at pages 13-11 and 13-12 I'm struggling to see how the adjustment works.

Is the split pin the one with the 'NEW' symbol pointing at it on 13-12?
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a_morti
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« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2017, 12:27:55 PM »

http://parts.southernhonda.com/a/Honda_1990_CB400F/_51518_6260240/REAR-BRAKE-MASTER--------CYLINDER/14KAFKE1_KAF4F1100A.html

Slacken off #22.
Remove and discard #23.
Remove #14.
Turn #15 up the thread of #9 until the pedal is where you want.

Good opportunity to grease the clevis.

Alternatively, if you remove the whole rearset off the bike, you can undo the bolt which holds the pedal and peg to the rearset and twist the whole thing, this way you don't need a new split pin, and you have a good opportunity to clean and regrease the brake pedal pivot.
« Last Edit: June 24, 2017, 12:37:54 PM by a_morti » Logged

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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2017, 07:57:25 PM »

http://parts.southernhonda.com/a/Honda_1990_CB400F/_51518_6260240/REAR-BRAKE-MASTER--------CYLINDER/14KAFKE1_KAF4F1100A.html

Slacken off #22.
Remove and discard #23.
Remove #14.
Turn #15 up the thread of #9 until the pedal is where you want.

Good opportunity to grease the clevis.

Alternatively, if you remove the whole rearset off the bike, you can undo the bolt which holds the pedal and peg to the rearset and twist the whole thing, this way you don't need a new split pin, and you have a good opportunity to clean and regrease the brake pedal pivot.

Thank you for the comprehensive run through. It was actually all totally obvious once I could see the thing in person. I'm an empiric learner. It was already fairly dialled out, but there was enough to lower it to my preferred angle.

If I was 2" further back on the seat I wouldn't need to adjust it. So I'm looking at ways to extend the rider area of the seat without upsetting the ergonomics and the seat/rear cowl aesthetics, as well as those dedicated to protecting them ;-))

It seems the hump that houses the location hooks on the plastic seat pan, defines the precise point the step in the foam occurs. I've got a second seat with a torn cover so I'm going to see what can be done with the existing setup by trimming the foam.


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a_morti
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« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2017, 04:17:37 PM »

http://parts.southernhonda.com/a/Honda_1990_CB400F/_51518_6260240/REAR-BRAKE-MASTER--------CYLINDER/14KAFKE1_KAF4F1100A.html

Slacken off #22.
Remove and discard #23.
Remove #14.
Turn #15 up the thread of #9 until the pedal is where you want.

Good opportunity to grease the clevis.

Alternatively, if you remove the whole rearset off the bike, you can undo the bolt which holds the pedal and peg to the rearset and twist the whole thing, this way you don't need a new split pin, and you have a good opportunity to clean and regrease the brake pedal pivot.

Thank you for the comprehensive run through. It was actually all totally obvious once I could see the thing in person. I'm an empiric learner. It was already fairly dialled out, but there was enough to lower it to my preferred angle.

If I was 2" further back on the seat I wouldn't need to adjust it. So I'm looking at ways to extend the rider area of the seat without upsetting the ergonomics and the seat/rear cowl aesthetics, as well as those dedicated to protecting them ;-))

It seems the hump that houses the location hooks on the plastic seat pan, defines the precise point the step in the foam occurs. I've got a second seat with a torn cover so I'm going to see what can be done with the existing setup by trimming the foam.
Sounds like what you really need is a bar that's a bit closer to the rider? VFR750 or 800 clip ons, maybe?
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2017, 07:49:56 PM »


Quote
Sounds like what you really need is a bar that's a bit closer to the rider? VFR750 or 800 clip ons, maybe?

I'm considering both, as well as Renthals as an eventual mod a_morti, but I've studied the ergonomics of the bike and the rider position on the seat is designed for shorter Japanese people. I'm 5'11" with 34" legs - average height for a European. Plus that part of the seat is tilted forwards.

But if you look at the CB-1 MK2 you discover that they totally redesigned the seating position. I'm still in the process of scaling the photos I can find, but it seems they deepened the foam on both the rider and pillion seat areas, moved the rider seat back what looks like approx 2", levelled the rider seat, and slightly shortened the rear cowel. You will notice that the pillion seat stands higher than the cowel, whereas it's virtually level on the first models.

But they also seem to have moved the tank away from the steering head. It's possible the tank and vowel dimendions and positions are all different from the first models.

Mine is a Japanese model and its tail light is tucked away, apparently as standard. I notice US model lights are out in the breeze.

The chances of locating a MK2 seat are very very slim. So I'm going to make one by gluing the correct density foam to the damaged seat foam, then shaping it to resemble the MK2. Then I guess I'm going to attempt my first seat recover with the correct quality of material. I may have to leave off the strap. I would like to get a look at a real MK2 before I start though.

Ergonomics is an interesting subject. I've designed furniture, and discovered that most furniture is not designed with the human form or comfort in mind. Just look what happened when Herman Miller first launched the Aeron chair. It's THE MOST ergonomic chair of all time, and nothing like anything that preceded it. So, the 2" rearward and 1" up modification will probably mean I can ride my CB-1 a lot further for much longer and in greater and safer comfort. Rear brake coverage shouldn't require upward lifting of the foot IMHO.

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a_morti
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« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2017, 03:54:36 AM »

Can't say i noticed a difference but considering the different bars it wouldn't surprise me if they changed more things. Post your comparison pics once you've scaled them?
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2017, 09:24:22 AM »

Can't say i noticed a difference but considering the different bars it wouldn't surprise me if they changed more things. Post your comparison pics once you've scaled them?

Will try to a_morti, but I'm currently using a ruler application on my Mac, and I don't have broadband. It's very unsatisfactory as a size diagnostic method.

It may be possible to obtain two very similar side shots that can be sized on screen via constant references on each model, such as the distance between the front of the cam cover and the back wheel nut. It's a long enough distance to allow for error, and hopefully devoid of any lens deformation.

I need full side shots of course, and it seems there is only one decent one of the MK2 and it's low res.

The other thing to establish is the precise positions of each component on the frame: Tank; Seat; Rear Cowel, as well as the dimensions. My suspicion is that they shortened the tail cowel just a bit to achieve the effect of lengthening the rider seat and moving it about 1.5"-2" back as well as deepening the pads/cushions, thus not altering the overall aesthetics. I just need to prove it.

Could save all this by finding a MK2 to measure. Didn't someone on here find one for sale some time back?

 
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2017, 12:11:11 PM »

Can't say i noticed a difference but considering the different bars it wouldn't surprise me if they changed more things. Post your comparison pics once you've scaled them?

I thought I'd seen reference to the Mk2 having a thicker seat on here somewhere. Indeed it was YOU a_morti who registered it when our friend CB1Pat from Dublin posted pics of his. You wrote:

"Very nice, the semi-mythical Mk2 CB-1, with the dark engine and alloy parts, longer (quieter) exhaust, higher handlebars and allegedly a slightly bigger tank and thicker seat pad."

http://www.hondacb1.org/forum/index.php/topic,2352.0.html

I wonder if he's still around.
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a_morti
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« Reply #10 on: June 26, 2017, 03:29:19 PM »

Wow, seems I've forgotten a lot over the years.

I know the mk2 airbox has one inlet snorkel and a lower lid, this allows a little more tabk capacity.

I'd be surprised if there were notable changes to things like the rear cowl, as that would involve expensive  new tooling.

Pat says in that thread that he had the seat rebuilt with more padding so all bets based on that image are off.
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2017, 08:02:33 PM »

Wow, seems I've forgotten a lot over the years.


It's the barium and aluminium in the Chemtrails mate. Happens to us all!!

Quote

I know the mk2 airbox has one inlet snorkel and a lower lid, this allows a little more tabk capacity.


The guy I bought the US Smurf parts from mentioned that. He used to be on here I believe. Nice guy from Devon, UK.

Quote

I'd be surprised if there were notable changes to things like the rear cowl, as that would involve expensive  new tooling.


I'm only going on what I can see in the linked image. It's not set in stone yet.

Quote

Pat says in that thread that he had the seat rebuilt with more padding so all bets based on that image are off.


Indeed. The image I'm using is the same one as oprion 2 here:

http://a2bikes.co.uk/bike/honda-cb-1

But strangely it's nowhere to be found on Google images now!!
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