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Author Topic: Need suggestions for new front end  (Read 2274 times)
a_morti
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« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2017, 09:10:04 AM »

Just need to adjust preload spacer length and you're good to go. Maybe a good time to fit preload adjustable caps (lots on china ebay, or used frim vfr800 or vtr1000f etc).
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ptlcb1
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« Reply #16 on: July 10, 2017, 09:30:58 PM »

Steel braided brake line?
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Dash
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« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2017, 02:52:22 AM »

Just need to adjust preload spacer length and you're good to go. Maybe a good time to fit preload adjustable caps (lots on china ebay, or used frim vfr800 or vtr1000f etc).

preload spacer? Whats that? Kiss

Steel braided brake line?

Yup, fitted to the front and back
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Pod70
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« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2017, 07:59:42 AM »

Just need to adjust preload spacer length and you're good to go. Maybe a good time to fit preload adjustable caps (lots on china ebay, or used frim vfr800 or vtr1000f etc).

preload spacer? Whats that? Kiss

The metal tube that sits in the fork tube on top of the spring. Adding stiffer springs will mean that the front end will compress less under the weight of the bike & rider. You may have to trim a bit off the tubes to get the correct sag settings on the front end. typically you will be looking for around 10mm with just the weight of the bike. Adding the Pre-load adjusters above means that it is easier to tweak this.
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2017, 11:44:55 AM »

This guy seems to be doing for front end suspension what Jerry Spacetiger is doing for the back end, albeit on a different bike. They're clearly brothers!!

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/05fork.htm
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Dash
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« Reply #20 on: July 12, 2017, 01:17:40 PM »

New front end fitted.

Hawk uppers
CB-1 lowers
SAE 15 oil, 420 ml per fork
Miele Suspension Mod fitted






















I cut off 2 230mm lenghts of vacuum cleaner pipe and used those as spacers Grin

Less sag and improved dampening what Ive noticed so far. Still need to test it more thoroughly though.
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spacetiger
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« Reply #21 on: July 12, 2017, 08:18:57 PM »

This guy seems to be doing for front end suspension what Jerry Spacetiger is doing for the back end, albeit on a different bike. They're clearly brothers!!

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/05fork.htm

LOL

MF, I hope one day some of my work might be thought of the way Peter's work is viewed.  We do think along similar lines but he is far advanced than me; but I am a quick learner and do have some tools he does not have.

With photobucket charging a steep cost per year to host pics, I have to think about how to best post results to share with other riders.  At $400/year, you could be looking at $4,000 in 10 years... thats a lot to pay.  I may start my own site and post links to my site.  Since I have a variety of bikes, I can post work on trikes (currently on my 2nd Can Am Spyders), scooters, and a variety of different bikes.  I'll do a little searching this weekend to figure out what I'm going to do.

Now, back to the OP...  On the front end, there is much to consider when making changes in the rear.  I have decided to to swap the CB-1 front to cartridge set up using Honda (Showa) components from other Honda bikes.  Right now I have VTR1000 fork lowers so I can use two fixed 4 pot calipers.  The cartridges I will put inside the VTR lowers will come from a CBR 600 F4i because it was set up to limit front suspension travel to match up with the rear suspension travel I'm going with.  I'll use RT gold valves to set up the damping on the 22mm cartridges.  A lot of people use RT springs, I found the Penski springs to be as good, but are shorter than RT springs (260mm vs ~360mm OAL difference).  That shorter spring gives you more options to manage the air volume to negate the air spring affect near or at full fork compression.  I have started to pull together the front components because this does affect the rear set up.  The shock I was pursuing will not be the best shock after all.  I was trying to get a 2" shock working range  but that will have the rear suspension moving over too large a range compared with the front I am going with.  With the F4i cartridge, I will only need a rear shock (longer than the CB-1 shock) with about a 1.3" working range.   So, I will use the CBR900 shock as it has plenty of usable stroke.  This will save me from having to drill and tap the shock for the remote reservoir.    

Jerry
« Last Edit: July 12, 2017, 08:20:39 PM by spacetiger » Logged
ModerateFkr
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« Reply #22 on: July 13, 2017, 12:02:30 AM »

We already hold you in very high regard Jerry.

I like your ideas. The server idea is good too. It's all about affordable server bandwidth. This is a small forum, so you should be able to do it on a decent unlimited broadband package and an always on server running unix (Ubuntu is free) - which you can build from an old PC. Your end should be minimal to zero cost.

Photobucket is probably getting hit by Pinterest (Fugly name - nearly as bad as yahoo!) and it's shareholders are demanding a business model upgrade. Time for that Carly woman to wade in. Sorry, this may only make sense if you read ZDNet - which I don't anymore.

Bikers are much nicer than techies. I once (in 2005) blogged they Apple should launch a phone with a cutdown version of iOS onboard. I was castigated like Copernicus... Because I was less than two years early - but 100% right. That's precisely what Apple did in 2007.

You're not only a quick learner Jerry, you're an empirical learner and you get stuff done. Plus you can teach. That's a great combination. Add some tech to that mix.

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Dash
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« Reply #23 on: March 28, 2018, 04:16:44 AM »

Returning to this topic at long last, sadly.

The damn seals are still sweating. Ive already replaced the uppers and the lowers seem to be just fine. Im at a loss what's causing this recurring leaking seals issue.

So Im once again considering swapping the entire front end. Maybe even do a bit of an upgrade.

Anyone know which front ends will bolt right in the CB1's triple clamp? Im told the CBR 600RR 2007 model front end will fit?
It will have a snowball effect to mount a different front end though, need new discs, calipers and master cilinder etc.

Anyone have any cheaper alternatives?  Grin

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a_morti
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« Reply #24 on: March 28, 2018, 04:46:15 AM »

Did you ever replace the fork bushes? If those are worn they'll give the seals a hard time.

96/97 cbr900 is a very easy fit. The triples work and five minutes with a file will even give you a steering lock. However there is nowhere to fit the headlight and clocks, and the OEM handlebars are too low for my comfort.

If you like the idea I can try to get the CAD drawing for the CNC top yoke on my bike.
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Dash
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« Reply #25 on: March 28, 2018, 05:03:30 AM »

Did you ever replace the fork bushes? If those are worn they'll give the seals a hard time.

96/97 cbr900 is a very easy fit. The triples work and five minutes with a file will even give you a steering lock. However there is nowhere to fit the headlight and clocks, and the OEM handlebars are too low for my comfort.

If you like the idea I can try to get the CAD drawing for the CNC top yoke on my bike.

No, I never did change the bushes. That would be the cheapest (attempted) fix I guess...
Completley forgot about them. daayyumm.

How can you tell if they re worn?
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a_morti
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« Reply #26 on: March 28, 2018, 08:34:22 AM »

If you get them in your hand you'll see if they're worn as the Teflon coating on the wear surface... Wears.

To test on the bike, jack front end up securely, and grab the fork legs tight. Try to rock them back and forth. If there is noticeable play in the legs when rocking, or a knocking sound, the bushes are probably worn. Sometimes you'll notice a knocking noise under braking, and even when the steering bearings are eliminated it's still there.
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Dash
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« Reply #27 on: March 28, 2018, 12:31:29 PM »

If you get them in your hand you'll see if they're worn as the Teflon coating on the wear surface... Wears.

To test on the bike, jack front end up securely, and grab the fork legs tight. Try to rock them back and forth. If there is noticeable play in the legs when rocking, or a knocking sound, the bushes are probably worn. Sometimes you'll notice a knocking noise under braking, and even when the steering bearings are eliminated it's still there.

Ok, thanks. Hopefully, if the weather is compliant, Im making a trip to the local shop. See if they can help me test that.
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cbx1260cc
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« Reply #28 on: May 03, 2018, 07:25:02 PM »

Read this thread with much interest as I have a parts bike I'd like to return to service--BUT--it has NO FRONT FORKS.

How about this idea?

Use CBR600F3 Wheel / discs / calipers and forks and slid them into the CB1 triples. This gives dual discs.

BUT

As the CBR600F3 has a WIDER wheel vs the CB1 this will also mean that the forks are spaced farther apart to accomodate the wider wheel. Is that CORRECT??

Is a solution then to use the CBR600F3 complete front end with upper and lower triple trees??

Does this in turn necessitate pressing out the "stem" from the CB1 unit and "inserting" it into the F3 setup??

Also with a wider spacing of the fork tubes will this not also reduce the Left to Right handlebar movement with a resultant "lengthening" of the turning radius??

Written another way.

IF the CBR600F3 fork tubes slide up into the CB1 triples all would be good until one tried to fit the front WIDER F3 wheel and one would find the fork tubes were not spaced far enough apart to allow the wheel / brakes to fit.

Is this correct??

If someone who has tried this could give us the benfit of their experiences it would be much appreciated.

Thank you

Rick

 

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a_morti
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« Reply #29 on: May 04, 2018, 03:10:54 AM »

Thw wheel width is bigger but the spacing is identical. I've had an f3 wheel with holes drilled to m8 for a stock disc mounted in stock forks just to use the wider lighter 6 spoke.
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