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Author Topic: Sprockets  (Read 315 times)
Drew m
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« on: July 02, 2017, 04:49:55 PM »

Decided to take a look at my sprockets, rear one looks fine but has 44 teeth, wondered why it screamed alot think I'll get one with less teeth, front one was pretty bad (teeth were like fishing hooks)but hey was that retainer bolt on tight, any tips on getting it off,I'm tempted to grind the s.o.b off and fit a new one any thoughts on this, is this bolt special I'm sure a bolt stockists could supply a very similar one if not identical, also any suggestions on sprocket sizes, I'm not really that bothered about acceleration but something that could pull my 15 stone carcass about without struggling, I'm very seldom 2 up.
Cheers,drew
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2017, 07:43:00 PM »

Decided to take a look at my sprockets, rear one looks fine but has 44 teeth, wondered why it screamed alot think I'll get one with less teeth, front one was pretty bad (teeth were like fishing hooks)but hey was that retainer bolt on tight, any tips on getting it off,I'm tempted to grind the s.o.b off and fit a new one any thoughts on this, is this bolt special I'm sure a bolt stockists could supply a very similar one if not identical, also any suggestions on sprocket sizes, I'm not really that bothered about acceleration but something that could pull my 15 stone carcass about without struggling, I'm very seldom 2 up.
Cheers,drew

Drew,

Page 7-3 of the manual identifies the Drive sprocket bolt as #16 and advises:

*Hold the motorcycle on its side stand and shift the transmission in 6th gear. With the brake pedal applied, remove (or install) the drive sprocket bolt."

It doesn't say if the bolt has a left handed thread or not. But the final drive is on the left of the engine and it therefore rotates counter clockwise. I've got a spare engine that I can check later tomorrow.

Anyone else know for sure, before Drew fills the air with sparks?
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a_morti
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« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2017, 08:31:41 PM »

I'm fairly sure it's a normal righty righty thread. I've done this with a breaker bar, from sitting on the bike with one foot on the pedal. Not ideal but worked for me. Probably easier to get a mate to help!

As always, an impact gun (air wrench) will make short work of this job. Ride round to a local tyre place and flutter your eyelids, they'll help you out.

Stock gearing for Japan models should be 15/41 and is not far off ideal. Any bigger on the back will make the speedo silly, and cruising revs too high for a given (actual!) road speed. The 44t rear will be making yours rev pretty high, and your speedo will be a good ways off.

You can check speedo safely by getting a speedo app on your phone, putting phone safely in pocket and going for a ride. Don't exceed 100kmh on the speedo, and then check your max speed on the app.

My speedo is nearly dead on, it has 15/39 and a 160 rear tyre. I'm only 155lb to your 210lb, but the 15/39 is about right for me. Which is handy as it's the only available size for my cbr400 rear wheel.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
ModerateFkr
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« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2017, 10:11:25 PM »

There's some good advice here Drew, especially the 4th reply.

Apologise for the logic based confusion re the possibility of a left handed thread. It seems they aren't very common anymore, and not a feature on Hondas. Though I'm sure I've come actoss one somewhere.

Good luck.
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Drew m
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« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2017, 05:53:14 AM »

Thanks for the replies guys, managed to get it off I phoned wemoto and they advised leaving front at 15 and 40 on the rear so went with that, they say I'll notice a difference, 38.00 pounds all in so not bad.
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Drew m
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« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2017, 11:21:20 AM »

With dropping 4t on the rear cog and the adjuster about half way along the adjuster markings should I take a link or 2 of the chain, it was a new chain done less than 100 miles.
Drew.
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a_morti
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« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2017, 12:30:46 PM »

Play by ear. I wouldn't start the job without sufficient time on your hands to deal with shortening the  chain, but it should be possible to take that up on the  adjusters.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
ModerateFkr
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« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2017, 12:54:38 PM »

With dropping 4t on the rear cog and the adjuster about half way along the adjuster markings should I take a link or 2 of the chain, it was a new chain done less than 100 miles.
Drew.

We always used to wind the adjusters fully or almost fully forward (check that the wheel is inline) and roll the chain around the drive cog and the bottom of wheel cog with the bike in gear. Then turn the back wheel until the chain is tight under neith and chock the wheel with a wedge and block. Then pull the rest of the chain over the top of the rear cog until it's tight and meets the other end. Within reason, whatever is left over can be chopped off using a link breaker. Generally it won't be possible to pull the chain too tight. Coat hanger hooks help avoid getting too greasy. A small plastic clamp is also useful to hold the lower portion in place.

Does this make sense?
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Drew m
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« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2017, 03:27:22 PM »

Yeh I'm with you, I've got the chain off soaking in degreaser, decided to take a look at the wheel bearings while the wheel was of one was dry and rough so it's one thing after another, I'll replace the 2 outer ones the inner one's sound it seems to be protected from the elements.,wemoto seems as good as any for bearings unless anyone can suggest anything else, do these rubber cushions in the hub really do any good.
Drew
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ModerateFkr
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« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2017, 07:55:31 PM »

Yeh I'm with you, I've got the chain off soaking in degreaser, decided to take a look at the wheel bearings while the wheel was of one was dry and rough so it's one thing after another, I'll replace the 2 outer ones the inner one's sound it seems to be protected from the elements.,wemoto seems as good as any for bearings unless anyone can suggest anything else, do these rubber cushions in the hub really do any good.
Drew

The rubber bushes dampen the drive from the gearbox to the back wheel. They protect the weakest link in that train, possably the smallest part of the gearbox, but maybe in the engine itself.
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Drew m
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« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2017, 02:43:13 PM »

I'm in the process of ordering up rear wheel bearings, 2 are 6303 17x47x14,the sprocket carrier bearing is listed in the Manual as being 6204 20x47x14,can anyone confirm this is correct, I'm thinking the through bolt is 17 ml thick so I'm not getting why 6204 is 20mm, 3mm bigger than the bolt that goes through it. Huh
Thanks, drew.
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a_morti
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« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2017, 06:54:46 PM »

The sprocket carrier has a small spacer slip fitted, so it has a larger diameter on the spreading to allow that. Don't worry, it'll make sense when you get there.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
Drew m
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« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2017, 01:26:13 AM »

Thanks a_morti, makes sense now, got a good deal on the bearings on eBay using the numbers, 3.17 gdp delivered, genuine skf so not bad.
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