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Author Topic: Do you think it's fixable?  (Read 1591 times)
filterMan
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« on: July 18, 2019, 11:33:48 AM »

Hi Guys,

So attached is a pic of one of my forks that's leaking, no surprise there looking at the state of it now I have ot off the bike!. I'm thinking maybe I might need to do something about it :-)

Now new stanchions are quite expensive so I was going to get this one hard chromed. There used to be a firm in Liverpool that did that but I think they've gone now. This might be beyond saving anyway.

Does anyone know if the stanchion (Or the complete fork) is the same spec as any other Honda models? I might see if there is a good used one on ebay. Unless someone has one for sale by chance?

Cheers, Al


* Stanchion.JPG (74.58 KB, 465x623 - viewed 146 times.)
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a_morti
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2019, 07:34:51 AM »

The leak will be due to rust in the travel area rather than those huge scabs. I'd doubt there's enough material to grind that big scab back to spec, so it's probably scrap now.

There are loads of Honda's with shows 41mm forks. Mostly they'll be compatible but there are all different length, mostly shorter to suit straight bars or clip ons under the yoke.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
filterMan
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« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2019, 11:08:52 AM »

Yes this one is scrap.

The other one looks okay but I'm having a real problem separating them. I've done this before on a few other bikes but never had any problem. I'm guessing the bushing doesn't have enough clearance to pull through the hole, perhaps it's flared out inside. When I pull on the stanchion instead of pulling the seal out, it just tightens up and has to be knocked free again.

It's not the first time I've had this problem, last time I took it to a workshop and they got them apart for me.

I did think I might drift it out from the underside using a long threaded bar (M8 or M10 perhaps, not sure of the thread size). That might damage the internals though.

Do you have any suggestions how I might separate them once it's like this?

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a_morti
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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2019, 12:46:59 PM »

Start with the obvious question, have you removed the circlip which retains the fork seal?

After that, given the state of the tube, I would imagine the seal has rusted internally and swollen to a tight fit in the lower leg.

More force is called for. Heating can also help release the corrosion bind. This will, if it hasn't already, scrap the bushes.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
filterMan
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2019, 02:29:54 PM »

Hi a_morti,

Thanks for the advice, I'm actually working on the not rusted one at the moment and I should have said, yes I've removed the spring clip holding the seal in place and undone the bottom hex bolt.

I've been applying heat around the collar near the seal, I'll be needing to respray the forks because it's bubbled the paint. The seal has moved a little, it's now just past the groove where the spring clip would go. Each time I pull in the stanchion though, the stanchion gets caught in fork leg for some reason and I have to knock it loose with a mallet. But I'm getting there. I've run out of gas now so I'll need to get some more before continuing.

I agree more force is needed, I'm knackered! I think this will be a long haul.

You would have thought that there would be a puller to do this job.
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a_morti
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« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2019, 03:45:10 PM »

I imagine the top bush has deformed to the point it's sticking in the seal washer, or maybe the bottom one so that it's catching on the lip. They'll definitely want changing.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
filterMan
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« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2019, 06:11:03 PM »

Yes, I'll get them apart (Hopefully), and decide what I need to buy.

Cheers, Al
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filterMan
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« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2019, 08:33:12 AM »

Yay, I've got the better one apart!

Looking at the stanchion, it's movement area looks good so I'll be keeping that one.

I was looking at the seals that I have and I'm not sure which way up they should go, Is it with the numbers stamped upwards or downwards? Common sense tells me it's upwards but I thought the internal spring should be at the top. Can someone help?

I've attached a pic of both ways up.


* writingDown.JPG (71.5 KB, 704x525 - viewed 108 times.)

* writingUp.JPG (82.11 KB, 727x614 - viewed 113 times.)
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filterMan
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« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2019, 09:53:10 AM »

I just watched a Youtube video on fork seals, I'm an expert now :-)

It looks to me as though it's writing goes towards the oil facing downwards so that the oil puts pressure on the seal as the fork compresses. Makes sense.
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a_morti
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« Reply #9 on: July 22, 2019, 07:27:14 PM »

Don't cheap out mate. Oil seals, fresh oil, dust seals, bushes. You need the whole lot, at least on the bad fork.

The oil seal has the spring facing down. If you're not sure, put it in the same way round as it came out!
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
filterMan
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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2019, 04:04:17 AM »

Thanks a_morti,

I've got them both apart now. I've got all the seals, bushes and a stanchion on order from Wemoto now. So I should have this all done by the weekend and back on the road.

Interesting that the old seals came out spring side up. Clearly they've been changed many, many times so I can't be 100% sure if that's correct. But that's what it looked like in the video I watched.
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a_morti
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« Reply #11 on: July 23, 2019, 08:56:36 AM »

You've got me doubting myself now!

But no, writing up. This is general engineering convention, so you can identify a bearing or seal part number for replacement before you remove it.
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Cam Drive Gear Train Smiley
Sugs
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« Reply #12 on: July 23, 2019, 09:46:07 AM »

Yup, spring side larger cavity towards the oil, writing up.
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1979 Honda GL1000 Goldwing - 1990 Honda CB1
Pod70
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« Reply #13 on: July 24, 2019, 08:42:39 AM »

Definitely writing up. I bought a set of stanchions, bushes & seals from ABE in Woolwich and the whole lot came to about 240. you need to remove the shuttles from the old stanchions and re-fit them in the new tubes (they supply instructions on how to do this). The easiest way to get the old shuttles out is to saw around the tube until you just break through, turn the tube and repeat in the recess where the bush fitted rather than grinding the end of the tube as they suggest

http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php

The quality was OK for the price.
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filterMan
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« Reply #14 on: July 25, 2019, 08:33:37 AM »

Thanks Pod70 but I've already ordered everything I need from Wemoto.

And thanks for the info on the shuttles. I'll be doing that this weekend. Hopefully on the road again by next week.

Cheers,

Al
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